Leakless Water Pump

[Roadster Rich]

I have a "leakless" pump on my roadster that I assembled about 25 years ago. I have a pump to rebuild for my barn find town sedan. I ordered a leakless kit with the stainless shaft for the TS and had to get a new core from Berts, as the original had a bad crack. The question is whether the pressed in brass bushing at the rear of the pump is any different than an original bushing? I used the rebuild parts on the roadster, as it was now starting to leak. What I have left are two bushings that look identical. Should the leakless bushing have any seals against the shaft or is all the leakless technology just in the pack nut to the bushing? I have looked at a couple suppliers sites to see if they sell two different bushings and it does not appear so (unless you can get the leakless one only as a part of the kit).

Also I read recently that the leakless should have grease pumped into the rear fitting until you are getting grease come out the pack nut end, before you thread on the pack nut. I did not do that on the recent rebuild and am thinking maybe I should back the nut all the way off and do that and retighten.

Rich

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I have a "leakless" pump on my roadster that I assembled about 25 years ago. I have a pump to rebuild for my barn find town sedan. I ordered a leakless kit with the stainless shaft for the TS and had to get a new core from Berts, as the original had a bad crack. The question is whether the pressed in brass bushing at the rear of the pump is any different than an original bushing? I used the rebuild parts on the roadster, as it was now starting to leak. What I have left are two bushings that look identical. Should the leakless bushing have any seals against the shaft or is all the leakless technology just in the pack nut to the bushing? I have looked at a couple suppliers sites to see if they sell two different bushings and it does not appear so (unless you can get the leakless one only as a part of the kit).

Also I read recently that the leakless should have grease pumped into the rear fitting until you are getting grease come out the pack nut end, before you thread on the pack nut. I did not do that on the recent rebuild and am thinking maybe I should back the nut all the way off and do that and retighten.

Rich

There's SO MANY configurations of leakless pumps, it's HARD to figger out what you have????
Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with Bill, there are different styles, so you have to see if the rear bushing has any type of seal. I like the rear bushing with the double lip seal at the end by the impellor. I rebuilt my pump just about 22 years ago, and did it totally original, and it never leaked a drop. I used two new lead packing rings covered with grease, and a new shaft. I still rebuild them just like original, except I use the double lip seal in the rear bushing. I remove the packing nut and grease until it comes out the front, then lightly snug the nut.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I ALWAYS buy the one with the COMPLETELY SEALED front & rear bearings!
Just "SET IT & FORGET IT"----LOL
Mitchs' Dad (Bill W.)

[Mike V. Florida]

The question is whether the pressed in brass bushing at the rear of the pump is any different than an original bushing? YES, the original does not have the rubber seal the new "leakless"ones have. I used the rebuild parts on the roadster, as it was now starting to leak. What I have left are two bushings that look identical. Should the leakless bushing have any seals against the shaft or is all the leakless technology just in the pack nut to the bushing? YES the leakless kits sold do have a seal, at least othe ones I have bought from Mikes.I have looked at a couple suppliers sites to see if they sell two different bushings and it does not appear so (unless you can get the leakless one only as a part of the kit). Might be that all they sell now are the ones with the o-ring.

Also I read recently that the leakless should have grease pumped into the rear fitting until you are getting grease come out the pack nut end, before you thread on the pack nut. I did not do that on the recent rebuild and am thinking maybe I should back the nut all the way off and do that and retighten. Yours needs grease, but they only need a very small amount after initial packing. If you were to put it on a piece of paper a glob the size or a dime is all you need.

Rich

...

[Roadster Rich]

Thanks. The two I have are open through the ID of the bushing with no o-ring seals of any kind. I will see if Mikes can assure me the ones they sell have the seal ring and wait for a new bushing.

[Mike V. Florida]

It's the leakless packing nut that is the most important as this where the shaft leaves the pump and would take water with it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

It's the leakless packing nut that is the most important as this where the shaft leaves the pump and would take water with it.

I like the stock packing nut, but a rear bushing with a double lip seal at the rear of the bushing. The double lip seal will keep the coolant away from the grease, and keep the grease from entering the coolant. If the seal wears out and coolant enters the grease I'd like to see it drip out the packing nut, so I know it needs to be repaired.

If you can't find the double lip seal rear bushing, then the single lip is the next best choice. As I recall, my double lip bushing came from Bert's.

[CarlG]

I got my "Leakless" water pump from James Rupert. As advertised, it truly is leakless for seven years now.

[Mitch]

I got my "Leakless" water pump from James Rupert. As advertised, it truly is leakless for seven years now.

i use his extreme pumps also, a great product
it blows away all the suppliers leakless pumps


Extreme Duty Leakless Water Pump
http://www.leaklessapumps.com