I have a short I need help with. I have my instrument panel and terminal box to generator harness hooked up in my running chassis and the engine starts and runs, the amp gauge shows positive as it should and everything is fine. The main harness is connected at the light switch base with no connections at the lights or horn. I get a short when I connect the two wire main harness generator cutout connection that makes the amp gauge peg discharge and the wire gets hot. There are no lights or anything else connected, just the wire terminal ends for lights and horn and brake lights taped and hanging loose, not touching any metal. The amp gauge also gets warm. The harness is a new Tyree Harris harness and I have checked all my connections at the terminal box and ignition switch. Any suggestions?
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There should be only one wire B/Y going to the cut out from the main harness... The other wire Y feeds the light switch from the cutout.. are you getting the short when only putting the yellow wire on? You dont need that one to just run the chassis as your doing.. be careful to not screw up melt down your new harness.
a little more info is needed here
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I am wondering if you have polarized the generator after installing and running it? That would show a strong discharge as the generator is wanting to run like a motor.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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My question is, is it only shorting when u hook up those double yellows? They only feed the light switch and horn so leave it off for now
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Art so the problem lies in the horn or somewhere in the light switch on out. Do your self a favor and put a test light inline of that double yellow wire. One end to the cut out and the other to the terminal end. When the light goes out you found your short and this way you won't screw up your new harness
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Originally posted by Art Ebeling View PostThanks for the info. I am working on rental property today and will gat back to the A later. What would I look for in the light switch?
Also make sure there are no loose wire strands that could touch the wiring cover.
If you remove the switch from the steering, and the short quits, you know it's in that part.
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Tonight I took the light switch apart and still had the short. I then saw the wire from the cutout to the light switch is on the same contact as the green wire to the brake light switch. I took the wire off at the front of the break light switch and no short. I reinstalled that wire and took the wire off off of the rear side of the switch and still had the short which tells me it is the switch and not beyond. How would I test the switch? Thanks guys
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Hey Art, it would help to know the year of the chassis which would determine which switch you have and limit the responses to the question.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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Originally posted by Art Ebeling View PostI have a short I need help with. I have my instrument panel and terminal box to generator harness hooked up in my running chassis and the engine starts and runs, the amp gauge shows positive as it should and everything is fine. The main harness is connected at the light switch base with no connections at the lights or horn. I get a short when I connect the two wire main harness generator cutout connection that makes the amp gauge peg discharge and the wire gets hot. There are no lights or anything else connected, just the wire terminal ends for lights and horn and brake lights taped and hanging loose, not touching any metal. The amp gauge also gets warm. The harness is a new Tyree Harris harness and I have checked all my connections at the terminal box and ignition switch. Any suggestions?You do not have permission to view this gallery.
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Art if you took an ohm meter and you show continuity from either terminal screw to the switch housing that is a short. You should only show contuniuity between the two screws that hold the wires when depressing the switch(nothing to the housing). Make sure your screws are not to long otherwise crack open the switch and look inside.
They are a very simple design
it might just be an insulator issue
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Art,
Adding to what we spoke about today on the phone it looks like the ammeter you have is an aluminum backed unit. I would replace that with a good original brass preferably or a brass backed repro if an original is not obtainable.
Larry Shepard
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Originally posted by Tom Wesenberg View PostIf the horn isn't connected yet, then I'd start by removing the light switch from the steering box and see if you still have the short. I'm thinking the spring loaded horn contact might be shorting to ground.
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If your small horseshoe clip is missing from the bottom end of the horn rod, then make sure the new C clip fits the groove in the horn rod before you start fighting the spring and spider to install it. Repro clips might be too thick for the groove, so you need to file them thinner.
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