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I have a short I need help with. I have my instrument panel and terminal box to generator harness hooked up in my running chassis and the engine starts and runs, the amp gauge shows positive as it should and everything is fine. The main harness is connected at the light switch base with no connections at the lights or horn. I get a short when I connect the two wire main harness generator cutout connection that makes the amp gauge peg discharge and the wire gets hot. There are no lights or anything else connected, just the wire terminal ends for lights and horn and brake lights taped and hanging loose, not touching any metal. The amp gauge also gets warm. The harness is a new Tyree Harris harness and I have checked all my connections at the terminal box and ignition switch. Any suggestions?
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Art,
Are your cut out terminal screws too LONG & shorting out to the generator case?
If so, shorten them, using your TERMINAL Pliers. That's what them little threaded holes are for.
Bill W. -
There should be only one wire B/Y going to the cut out from the main harness... The other wire Y feeds the light switch from the cutout.. are you getting the short when only putting the yellow wire on? You dont need that one to just run the chassis as your doing.. be careful to not screw up melt down your new harness.
a little more info is needed hereComment
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I am wondering if you have polarized the generator after installing and running it? That would show a strong discharge as the generator is wanting to run like a motor.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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My question is, is it only shorting when u hook up those double yellows? They only feed the light switch and horn so leave it off for nowComment
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Mitch, yes it only shorts out when hooking up the double yellow wire. I just finished my horn and was trying to connect it to see if the horn button worked. Nothing else is hooked up, only what you see in the pictures.Comment
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Art so the problem lies in the horn or somewhere in the light switch on out. Do your self a favor and put a test light inline of that double yellow wire. One end to the cut out and the other to the terminal end. When the light goes out you found your short and this way you won't screw up your new harnessComment
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If the horn isn't connected yet, then I'd start by removing the light switch from the steering box and see if you still have the short. I'm thinking the spring loaded horn contact might be shorting to ground.Comment
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Thanks for the info. I am working on rental property today and will gat back to the A later. What would I look for in the light switch?Comment
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Make sure the center spring contact for the horn doesn't fit so loose it flops to the side and shorts to ground.Originally posted by Art Ebeling View Post
Also make sure there are no loose wire strands that could touch the wiring cover.
If you remove the switch from the steering, and the short quits, you know it's in that part.Comment
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Tonight I took the light switch apart and still had the short. I then saw the wire from the cutout to the light switch is on the same contact as the green wire to the brake light switch. I took the wire off at the front of the break light switch and no short. I reinstalled that wire and took the wire off off of the rear side of the switch and still had the short which tells me it is the switch and not beyond. How would I test the switch? Thanks guysComment
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it seems you already tested it. they are known for troubleComment
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Hey Art, it would help to know the year of the chassis which would determine which switch you have and limit the responses to the question.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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The chassis is a 1931,The switch is a new quality part with the brass bushing.Comment
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Originally posted by Art Ebeling View PostYou do not have permission to view this gallery.
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Let's see a picture of how you wired the horn.Comment
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Mike, the horn is not on the car, I was only going to test it. The problem seems to be at the brake light switch. The short is gone when the brake light switch is disconnected. There is nothing connected past the brake light switch.Comment
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Art if you took an ohm meter and you show continuity from either terminal screw to the switch housing that is a short. You should only show contuniuity between the two screws that hold the wires when depressing the switch(nothing to the housing). Make sure your screws are not to long otherwise crack open the switch and look inside.
They are a very simple design
it might just be an insulator issueComment
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Art,
Adding to what we spoke about today on the phone it looks like the ammeter you have is an aluminum backed unit. I would replace that with a good original brass preferably or a brass backed repro if an original is not obtainable.
Larry ShepardComment
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Art , my late 31 stop light switch was shorting to the switch case, I'm thinking I re- insulated it use cereal box. That was way too many years ago(1970), the switch is simple and easy to repair! Make sure the wire terminal end aren't touching the switch case.Comment
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Tom, I think you got it! after not finding anything wrong in the brake switch and putting the light switch back together I noticed my horn and headlight switch is not held tight against the steering wheel and sticking up higher than the steering wheel. I am going to go thru it again today.Originally posted by Tom Wesenberg View PostComment
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Sounds like you lost the "E" clip, on the horn rod spider.
Bill W.Comment
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If your small horseshoe clip is missing from the bottom end of the horn rod, then make sure the new C clip fits the groove in the horn rod before you start fighting the spring and spider to install it. Repro clips might be too thick for the groove, so you need to file them thinner.Comment
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I just bought a 31 Roadster and the cowl wiring burned up in the tunnel going through the firewall behind the instrument panel. What might cause this to happen? The car ran fine but I haven't tried to start it since the fire. I have a NOS replacement coming but don't want to burn it up too. Where and how should I start to find the problem?02-20-2019, 11:36 PM -
The generator on my Tudor is Ford, but not Model A. Instead of a post, there is a green wire. I don't think that it was connected properly, and ran under the cutout, where the metal edge was cutting into the insulation. I changed it around and this is what I ended up with. Other than a lack of originality, is this all correct? (I don't have the lighting wire attached)You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.12-07-2019, 12:38 PM -
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I just tuned my Model A last nite and the engine sounded good. Today, it would not start. It turned over good and the battery was strong. I opened the hood and the wire from the starter into the metal channel up to the terminal box had burned thru just 3 inches from the starter switch. I removed all wires from the terminal box and pulled the wire out of the metal channel and all of the insulation...09-05-2018, 10:21 PM
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I have a bit of a stumper question for and troubleshooters out there. All of my lights on my '28 Tudor (head/tail light, brake light, and parking lights) work, but for some reason the front and rear parking light started to blink as if it was a turn signal. This occurs whether I have the light switch on or not, and still happens when I have the ignition turned off. The only way to stop it is to pull...02-23-2019, 06:09 PM
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I have noticed a short somewhere in my electrical system, when I remove the fuse at the fuse block I see a small spark, I have been chasing it trying to find the problem but not been able to find it. I have put a new wiring harness on the front half of the car and I undid the wires at the cutout and still sparks anyone have any suggestions where to go next?...10-29-2019, 10:37 AM -
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I posted on the regular Model A thread about my "new" car and I wanted some opinions on wiring. First, wiring doesn't scare me. I'm into computers, ham radio, electronics in a big way. I understand electricity and electronics quite well. That is not an issue.
Money will always be an issue. Not money will spent but money spent where I don't need to spend it.
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Hi,
I've been busy lately attending to wiring the Speedster. I'm now at the hard part for me....YEP, I've left the best for last.....
For aesthetics on my Speedster I'm using a KW coil box switch and without an Amp meter.
But for other reasons I'm using a later electrical wiring loom which is designed for the usual ignition switch, Amp meter, and light switch.
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This gallery has 1 photos.01-30-2019, 06:56 PM
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