I have a cracked block left side of engine leaking water . May try Blue Devil Block sealer . Any other suggestions other than a new block. I used it last year for a sand hole casting leak in the valve adjusting chamber worked out good so far over 2000 miles on that repair .
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Could you describe or show exactly where the crack is?Mechanical engineering 101: If you put an adjustment knob, screw, bolt, or tolerance specs on something, some people will immediately fiddle with it. If you mark it DO NOT TOUCH everyone will mess with it.
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31Roadster welcome to the VFF,
For circumstances like that you won't know till you try. We used blue devil technician in a can in the shop for the local used car, lot pass it on headgasket issues and i never really liked it to much. I have had luck with technician in a can K-Seal.. your mileage may vary3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctrComment
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Hey 31Roadster WELCOME to VFF!You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!Comment
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Will add picture later today. I did use JB weld worked for about 1000 miles. I have removed any remaining JB weld . I'm thinking let the blue devil seep out of the crack for about 100 mile at 100% operating temp to allow expansion and contraction of the crack.then add J B weld over crack as an additional layer of protection.Comment
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I'm working on a temporary engine for my 28, and it never leaked a drop. It was only after I stripped the old paint and gave it a new coat that I found 2 freeze cracks in the bottom edge on the left side. I sandblasted the cracks and pressed 24 hour JB Weld into the cracks as well as I could, then before the mix got hard, I lightly wire brushed it to blend in with the rough cast.
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This gallery has 8 photos.Comment
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That is the same Location of my leak . I like blasting it gives JB weld something to bite into . I used a drellel tool the first time and I could not get it rough enough to allow good adhesion .Comment
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the blasting makes the surface nice and clean, too, allowing for better adhesion.
Please whatever you do, do not allow anyone to convince you to weld it, or allow anyone to weld it. No matter what they say. I cannot tell you the number of times customers have had leaks repaired by welding, 'by the best welder around' and the cracks always just get worse. Epoxy repair as Tom shows, and maybe block sealer are good bets. If there is a machine shop nearby that can 'stitch it' using a series of overlapping drilled and tapped plugs that is a superb way to repair.Comment
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I was taught by an old Mack truck mechanic how to do that back in 1972. I had a 1954 GCM pickup with about a 6" crack in the right side of the engine water jacket. He called it "lacing". Worked like a champ. Even used the truck to tow my car from Texas to Connecticut on one of my many military transfers. It still wasn't leaking when I sold the truck.
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Anyone know how these casting holes were factory sealed.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.07-04-2017, 04:00 PM -
Haven't seen any info on Tod's A block casting project lately, anyone know what the story is?03-19-2019, 10:01 AM -
At least exhaust 1 2 & 3 have cracks. Evidently the machinist did the damage installed the guides in the block. There is no leaking at this time, and I think there’s a possibility of drilling a stop hole, as the cracks appear to be above the water jacket. Thanks for your thoughts.
its a new build with new Babbitt and has been ran.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.05-21-2018, 02:26 AM -
Thanks for the warm welcome to VFF.
Regarding the engine project, details including the last 2 updates when the project was resurrected and other details can be found at: www.modelaengine.com
John (our team member responsible for manufacturing and quality assurance) will be leaving for China on Friday, Sept 6.
John has 30 years of experience having parts made...09-04-2019, 10:12 PM -
Picked up a Diamond block for 60$. It was outside under a lean to, so it's seen some weather. I got the head off easily. Crank rotates a bit, got a stuck valve or two. Distraction work and in no hurry to do anything but see how things look inside and do some research. Have looked on Fordgarage for serial no. Info etc....You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.04-07-2021, 02:04 PM -
I recently bought a 1966 F-600. I was told it has a 342 engine in it. How can I verify?10-08-2019, 09:41 PM -
I want to drain the radiator and engine block cooling fluid. I must be blind. I see no petcock on the radiator and none on the engine block. Engine is 1937 60 HP. On the block shouldn’t there be two? One for each bank?
Will one of you point out where to find these petcocks please?...11-06-2018, 05:44 PM -
How careful should I be in cleaning the engine block surface after pulling the head? do I need to keep all debris out of water jackets, cylinders, etc.?05-06-2018, 09:32 AM -
Ok, in the tear down of the current customers engine that I started today I have found some interesting tags. Mainly a tag stating "Original engine out of '30. Rowe Block" or "Roe Block".
It has a nicely counter balanced crank(Bolt on & welded), B cam and since I don't yet have the head off, from the bottom looks like some nice aluminum pistons. Pictures to follow.......07-23-2019, 11:17 AM -
Heres the latest flathead block were building for another run on the salt flats. Can anyone see any differences?
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This gallery has 1 photos.11-10-2018, 06:25 PM
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