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Battery cut off switch

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  • Battery cut off switch

    Beau here is the switch I use and have for years they re well made. also

    check e-bay better prices but that should give you an idea of what you want the suppliers make a metal bracket for mounting these down by the starter.

  • #2
    That's a nice switch Chief posted but i prefer mine mounted in the cabin, where it's easy to reach and out of sight .
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"

    Mitch's Auto Service ctr


      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      Me too mine is under the driver seat and I can reach it Beauford has a pickup which is whu i mentioned it

  • #3
    And which wire should/could be disconnected, Or is this a topic like WW tires, oil, etc! :-)


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      i prefer the ground also which on a stock Model A would be the positive

  • #4
    I prefer ground and yeah this has been highly discussed.


    • #5
      Ground for me also. In my coupe it was in the cross member in front of the seat. Did not show and easy to get to.
      In my pickup I put it under the floor board. It has a plate over that swings to the side. You can turn it on and off sitting in the driver seat.


      • #6
        Beauford might like that tip george.


        • #7
          Thanks guys! On a mini vaca with the family so just catching up. I'll order one this week!!


          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            HEY mother

            YOU were just away on vacation recently... HAA

            have fun and enjoy

        • #8
          Just so everybody is clear on this, a battery cutoff switch alone is NOT a safety shutoff! The engine will continue to run, with the genny or alternator powering the entire electrical system- even if you have a hot smoking short circuit.

          If you also want it to function as an engine kill to stop generated power to the electrical system you need a double pole switch like this:

          The heavy lugs break the battery. The smaller (rated 20A) are wired to break the ignition and, if you have them, electric fuel shutoff and fuel pump. THAT stops the engine in an emergency and in turn stops the running genny or alternator from powering a damaged electrical system independent of the battery. If you have an alternator you need to be careful not to wire this switch to break the entire alternator output from the output lug. That is usually fatal for the alternator. Many racing sanctions demand this type of switch and they can also be wired into the alternator internal circuit for a safe instant kill as an alternative to splicing into the ignition and fuel supply.

          Of course, in a running engine electrical emergency you could just remember to shut off BOTH the ignition and battery, but this dual switch makes it simple. Mounting of a combination cutoff and emergency kill switch like this should be in a location accessible from the driver's seat and with the cutoff lugs breaking the ground connection for maximum safety.

          I like my switches mounted through the center cross-member, with an access hole in the floorboard. Just lift up the corner of the mat or rug to flip the switch.

          Last edited by MikeK; 08-27-2017, 10:50 AM. Reason: Syntax correction.
          Mechanical engineering 101: If you put an adjustment knob, screw, bolt, or tolerance specs on something, some people will immediately fiddle with it. If you mark it DO NOT TOUCH everyone will mess with it.


          • Big hammer
            Big hammer commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks Mike!

          • BNCHIEF
            BNCHIEF commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks Mike great post and info.

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          Beau here is the switch I use and have for years they re well made. also

          check e-bay better prices but that should give you an idea of what you want the suppliers make...
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