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  • Switching to a detergent oil

    I am in the process of cleaning any sludge and old oil from my A’s little motor. Dropped the oil pan and I guess I am missing the rear main cap drain tube. Yikes
    Attached Files
    28 Tudor
    57 Tbird
    2kMR2 Spyder
    62 Willys Pickup

    Wise man once told me you don’t know what you don’t know

  • #2
    Is there a question ?
    I'm sure you'll fix that issue. You did remove the baffle to clean the pan ? I'd recommend cleaning the crap [ technical term] from the lifter galley too and checking/adjusting the bearing clearances. The center and rear main tend to wear quite a bit. I set them to .0015" and the rear main closer to .001". It doesn't hurt to check the oil pump while its out.

    Comment


    • CSPIDY
      CSPIDY commented
      Editing a comment
      Baffle is removed for cleaning as well as the lifter cover to clean the galley.
      I am adding an oil filter as well.
      As for a question “I know nothing” so any advise is very appreciated.
      I will also be removing the rear bearing cap to modify for a 3/8 die tube. And will address the clearance.
      Thanks
      Last edited by CSPIDY; 02-07-2019, 10:38 AM.

  • #3
    I do have another question with regards to the original 5/16 tube, is the oil flow to much for the size and area to pass the oil back into the tank? Was it backing up?
    28 Tudor
    57 Tbird
    2kMR2 Spyder
    62 Willys Pickup

    Wise man once told me you don’t know what you don’t know

    Comment


    • DaWizard
      DaWizard commented
      Editing a comment
      Check the PM

    • CSPIDY
      CSPIDY commented
      Editing a comment
      What I intended to ask here is why is it prudent to enlarge to a 3/8 tube? Just want to understand the problem with a 5/16 tube.

  • #4
    My thoughts,I always heard if it’s a new rebuilt ok but don’t do it if it has not been done from the beginning,I know you are cleaning up everything would love to know more?

    Comment


    • #5
      The size of the return pipe, I can't answer that question.
      Checking the clearances, I would recommend placing a jack under the crank just to take up the weight and keep the crank against the upper babbit. I like plastigauge.

      Comment


      • CSPIDY
        CSPIDY commented
        Editing a comment
        any carbon that should be dislodged should be caught by the filter.
        Last edited by CSPIDY; 02-08-2019, 09:34 PM.

    • #6
      The original tubes were 5/16 and undersized, they were replaced by 3/8 for better function.
      The vendors have them.
      Removing the rear cap can be a pain to remove, but it will be worth it. There is a welch plug on the side of the cap that should be removed to properly clean the passageway. New plugs (they are like small freeze plugs, made by Dorman) are available to NAPA and such or at least they can order. You will have to get an entire box but they are dirt cheap. For all I know, maybe the vendors have them now.
      Re-fit for whatever the thread pitch is, I believe it is 3/8-24 but don't quote me.
      Then, tack weld that baby in there, be sure the curve faces forward.

      The front main hardly ever needs adjusting, but check it anyway.
      Start at the rear, and check one main at a time. NEVER take more shims out of the center main than you did the rear, even if that leaves the center a bit looser than you wanted. If you do, you are gonna snap the crank
      You are shooting for .0015-.002 clearance, either is fine

      Once this is all done, and your filter is in, be sure to do an oil change at about 250-500 miles max, even with the filter, it is gonna have a lot of shit in it. Thereafter, we change every 2000-3000 miles

      When we clean the valve chamber, we put roofing nails into the oiler tubes that lead to the mains and cam (no tube on the center cam bearing) to keep crap from lodging in there. DON'T forget to take them out. This is what they make brake cleaner for, BTW

      CALLING GEORGE MILLER
      would like your input on this
      George is one of the sharpest, if not the sharpest, guy on here. He has more mechanical, machining, engine building, racing experience, etc etc than all the rest of the people on all the forums combined, and not just on Model As.
      If he says it, it simply IS
      Last edited by tbirdtbird; 02-07-2019, 02:29 PM.

      Comment


      • Dennis
        Dennis commented
        Editing a comment
        Thread pitch is 3/8"-32 for that tube. Tap can be bought from Amazon, where I bought one. Freeze plugs are available from vendors.

      • tbirdtbird
        tbirdtbird commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks, Dennis

      • CSPIDY
        CSPIDY commented
        Editing a comment
        Dually noted, and brake wash is the best method of cleaning

    • #7
      Originally posted by Jm29henry View Post
      My thoughts,I always heard if it’s a new rebuilt ok but don’t do it if it has not been done from the beginning,I know you are cleaning up everything would love to know more?
      don't do what?
      If you mean don't change over to detergent oil, that would be advice I would recommend against, after being a pro mechanic for 40 yrs
      Non-D oil was made by the devil hisself
      Last edited by tbirdtbird; 02-07-2019, 02:25 PM.

      Comment


      • George Miller
        George Miller commented
        Editing a comment
        I think you guys got it covered. I will add I would not use non detergent in any thing and never have. For sure use detergent in it now that you have it cleaned up, and change it the first time sooner than normal. Back in the 50ts I had to work on the old cars that used non detergent oil. It was like working in a pig pen.

      • Terry, NJ
        Terry, NJ commented
        Editing a comment
        The only use I ever found was when I had an old , 62 F-600 box van with a huge rear end with about a 6. --- ratio. When that truck was doing 45 MPH, the engine was reving like your car at 90MPH! For those who recall ford engines of the early sixties, they all had problems with the rear mains leaking and this one was no exception! The only oil I could get to stay in the engine was 30 or 40 straight weight oil. Other wise, it's pretty useless!
        Terry

    • #8
      Very Humble Vintage Opinion On Past Model A Forum Guys Recommending Using Non Detergent Oil After Model A Engine Total Rebuild/Restoration:

      A. If one researches the Model A Forums for the past 20+ years, some Forum members often announced that Model As were specifically designed for NO air filters, No oil filters, and Non-Detergent Oil; hence, because of this fact, after total Model A engine overhaul / restoration, they often recommended No air filters, No oil filters, and to keep using Non-Detergent Oil for daily drivers as opposed to low mileage Show Cars.

      B. Not one ever tried and reported back on my following often offered suggested Filter and Oil Test below:

      Try buying your wife a new car and remove the air filter, oil filter, and manufacturer's multi-grade detergent oil. Next, add non-detergent oil followed by reporting on the number of miles driven before your wife's New Test Car resembled a Heavily-Smoking Mosquito-Control Truck.

      C. Very Humble Opinion:

      1) I never went to check on any of these Model A Forum guys recommending Non-Detergent Oil after engine total overhaul, but it would not surprise me if these same guys still use their grandmothers' 1930 outhouses and wipe with corn cobs.

      2) Furthermore, those same Model A Forum members still using tap water and not 50/50 antifreeze in Model A radiators may even cook and burn these same used outhouse corn cobs in their wood stoves, and burn same in their Living Room fireplaces while watching TV at night.

      3) Please feel free to add more Model A opinions on Non-Detergent Oil Users after engine rebuild / overhaul ................

      Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 02-07-2019, 05:36 PM.

      Comment


      • CSPIDY
        CSPIDY commented
        Editing a comment
        Black and White TV for sure

      • CSPIDY
        CSPIDY commented
        Editing a comment
        I have found that full synthetic oils are the best for lubrication and extended life of the motor. they clean better than detergent oil but tend to lubricate the outside of the motor as well as the inside. if not for that issue I would consider it in my A. I will be running Shell Rotella 15w 45 same as I run in my Tbird. at least for now

      • tbirdtbird
        tbirdtbird commented
        Editing a comment
        that is a good choice.
        Baby Bird by any chance? One of my all-time fav cars

      • 1930 Closed Cab PU
        1930 Closed Cab PU commented
        Editing a comment
        Main aim of detergent oil is to keep filth suspended in the oil so it is removed when oil is drained. Non-detergent a lot of the filth it settles to the bottom of the oil pan and collect as sludge, also can collect in the valves access. over time.


        What is the cause of synthetic oil getting on the outside? Via oil filler tube, leaking/poor condition gaskets, and why? This is something I have not heard before.

      • CSPIDY
        CSPIDY commented
        Editing a comment
        Synthetic oil because it cleans so well will remove all carbon and build up in the engine and it is thinner than most conventional oils. it will leak.

      • CSPIDY
        CSPIDY commented
        Editing a comment
        57 Tbird, I posted some pictures in the late V8 forum.

      • 1930 Closed Cab PU
        1930 Closed Cab PU commented
        Editing a comment
        IMHO - If engine is old, worn, and gaskets are not great I can understand this, detergent oil may eventually clean out deposits from the gasket areas. Couple this with using a lower viscosity synthetic like 0w20 or 5w20 and the gaskets can weep/leak. On a motor in good shape, would not make a difference. I think most motors that are running non-detergent are probably older worn engines. My opinion. Interested if this does not make sense.

      • Terry, NJ
        Terry, NJ commented
        Editing a comment
        When I was involved with aviation, our SOP was to fill the crankcase with 10 wt mineral oil for the first ten hours, drain out out and refill with 20-50 Aeroshell. I can't think of any other reason for using non-detergent oils in an engine. Since ND oils were not available in 1927, Henry didn't use them! Period. To say his engines were designed for it is laughable! I hope all the guys remember to clean their oil pump screens while they're doing their annual anti - sludge, oil pan tear downs.

      • Chuck Sea/Tac
        Chuck Sea/Tac commented
        Editing a comment
        Regarding comment that non detergent oils weren’t around in model A days:: wasn’t nd oil just oil? Detergent oil was formulated in the 50’s, so is nd oil different then plain oil?

    • #9
      It appears in the picture that not only is the drip tube missing, but the rod cap nuts are missing cotter pins. I suggest you also take a look at those and install cotter pins or replace with Marsden nuts.

      Comment


      • CSPIDY
        CSPIDY commented
        Editing a comment
        cotter pins are there, very small and short

      • CSPIDY
        CSPIDY commented
        Editing a comment
        After a closer look at the rod caps, you are right the number 4 piston rod cap is indeed missing cotter pins in both nuts. I was so focused on the aft main cap I never noticed the others. Thanks for you keen eye.
        Dave

    • #10
      1) synthetic is great stuff, tho prolly not needed in an A. In any event, do NOT use it as a new-engine break-in oil in an A (the rings will take forever and a day to seat). Make no comparison to a modern engine, they are like night and day. Once you have 1000-2000 miles on the car (yes it takes that long for rings to fully seat, unless you used moly rings, in which case they will never seat), then if you insist on synthetic, go for it
      2) Somewhere on here a long time ago I delineated a procedure to follow to take up the mains by both methods, foil and plastigage. If you use plastigage, get the one rated for .001-.003.
      Get a fresh pack, it dries out

      If you read any directions anywhere that tell you otherwise, toss that piece of paper in the woods. Successful assembly, maintenance, and reliability of anything car related, whether mechanically related or paint and body related, is dependent on years of experience, and not a slip of paper that came in a box, especially since those slips of paper are often wrong, and untested in the real world
      Last edited by tbirdtbird; 02-07-2019, 08:14 PM.

      Comment


      • CSPIDY
        CSPIDY commented
        Editing a comment
        I like the foil method, will update as I go

    • #11
      Short version of a very long story:

      For my 1930 Coupe, in about 1959 I had a newly re-built engine given to me. With an immaculate engine, I started using recommended improved Havoline detergent oil, (35) cents a quart, (retail), sold in my Dad's rural general merchandise store.

      I was the only kid my age and younger with a car, ($25.00), and knowing I could not pay to have repairs done, I changed oil religiously every 500 miles like Ford had recommended.

      In 1996, from this same Coupe, I removed this engine and took it apart ..... nobody would probably believe that all over inside .......... it was spotless.

      I took this engine to about a 90 year old local famous Model A engine re-builder in 1996, (Mr. Bratton knew him well), to check it out.

      After removing one main bearing, he stopped.

      He looked at me and inquired, "Where did you get this engine?" The guy that had it in 1959 lived 10 miles away from his shop. He immediately said he could tell by the Babbitt pour there was no doubt he poured it in 1959 ..... he even knew this guy very well.

      He told me to go home, maybe remove one or two shims after checking bearings, replace piston rings, and drive .... it had a minimum cylinder wear and very little ridge at top ...... valves were still tight ...... always used vintage brands of top cylinder oil added to gas.

      My Town Sedan from 12 years ago had non-detergent oil ..... maybe 1 " sludge in oil pan, maybe 3/8" in valve chamber.

      Cleaned it all with POR 15 Marine Clean, added 15-w-45 Shell Oil, oil filter and about a 6" tall K and N air filter. I'm not worried.

      Comment


      • #12
        I was 3 years old in 1959, no memory of it,
        28 Tudor
        57 Tbird
        2kMR2 Spyder
        62 Willys Pickup

        Wise man once told me you don’t know what you don’t know

        Comment


        • #13
          Originally posted by CSPIDY View Post
          Synthetic oil because it cleans so well will remove all carbon and build up in the engine and it is thinner than most conventional oils. it will leak.
          How is it thinner if you use the same spec? Synthetic oil's causing leaks is another myth
          3 ~ Tudor's
          Henry Ford said
          "It's all nuts and bolts"


          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

          Comment


          • CSPIDY
            CSPIDY commented
            Editing a comment
            Mitch, you know I have only seen 5w 20 and 0w 5 synthetic oils so I guess I have never seen 40 w synthetic.

          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            Dave again it’s all a myth this whole leaking thing

          • CSPIDY
            CSPIDY commented
            Editing a comment
            So why don’t we run synthetic oil?

          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            I run Mobil 1 15w50 in one car and rotella 15w40 in the other until the rings seat. Then i'll switch over

            Most don't run it because of the price from what I have read over the years

          • CSPIDY
            CSPIDY commented
            Editing a comment
            I think the benefits would be worth the cost. From what I have read with synthetic oil you can extend the oil changes.

          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            Actually Dave that is another Myth. I would still change it as you have been using conventional oil.
            Example

            Using synthetic without a filter IMO it should still be changed every 500 miles


            Quoted from the myth's below!!!!
            Myth: If you use a good synthetic oil, you can change your oil less frequently.


            Lubricant marketers do not set oil drain intervals; these recommendations are made by the engine manufacturers. The point of using high-quality synthetic oil is to take better care of the engine and reduce deposit formation, which may reduce power, performance, and fuel economy – rather than extending the drain interval.

          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            As I mentioned somewhere already in this thread

            Price is always mentioned on Model A threads and the determining factor

            For me I could care less what it costs vs non synthetic oil

        • #14
          SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL MYTHS by Valvoline!!!


          MYTH: Synthetic motor oil is "fake" oil.

          Synthetic motor oils are not fake. They are derived from crude oil, natural gas, or other chemical feed materials; however, as a general rule they use more extensively processed, higher quality base oils than conventional motor oils. Synthetic oils also use different additives than conventional oils that are designed for extra wear protection and higher stability to temperature and shear.

          MYTH: Synthetic motor oil is bad for engine seals.

          Synthetic motor oil will not cause any damage to engine seals.

          MYTH: Synthetic oil causes cars to use more oil.

          False. Synthetic oils will not cause an engine to use more oil.

          MYTH: Synthetic oil creates more sludge.

          Not true. Valvoline synthetics include extra detergents to help clean an engine and reduce the risk of sludge.

          MYTH: Synthetic oils are too thin and can create blow-by and oil burn-off in older cars.

          Synthetic motor oils do not affect seals and will not be the cause of blow-by or oil burn-off in an older engine. Just like conventional motor oil, synthetic oils have a specific viscosity grade. However, our synthetic motor oil contains extra lubrication additives to make the oil stronger and provide higher heat dissipation.

          MYTH: Once you’ve used synthetic motor oil you can’t switch to conventional motor oil.

          Not true. Synthetic and conventional oils are compatible, so it is not harmful if you decide to switch.



          Synthetic Oil Myths by Penzoil

          Myth: Once you switch to synthetic oil, you can never switch back.


          This is one of the most persistent myths about synthetic oil—and completely untrue. You can switch back and forth at any time. In fact, synthetic blends are simply a mixture of synthetic and conventional oils. It is advisable that you use the same oil for top-ups if needed, thereby giving you the best protection from the oil that you have chosen. Myth: Synthetic motor oil is not compatible with conventional motor oil.


          This is not true. For example, motor oil labeled “synthetic blend” already has synthetic oil and conventional oil mixed together. All Pennzoil® engine oils are tested for compatibility with other oils. Myth: If you use a good synthetic oil, you can change your oil less frequently.


          Lubricant marketers do not set oil drain intervals; these recommendations are made by the engine manufacturers. The point of using high-quality synthetic oil is to take better care of the engine and reduce deposit formation, which may reduce power, performance, and fuel economy – rather than extending the drain interval. Myth: You shouldn’t use synthetic oil in an older vehicle.


          The myth is rooted in the idea that synthetic oil is “slipperier”—lower in viscosity, or not as compatible with seals and will therefore leak or leak more in places conventional oil might not. Again, completely untrue. Synthetic oils will enhance the engine protection in older vehicles, just as they do for new engines.


          MOBil1

          Myth: Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.
          Reality: Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 was tested in dozens of industry standard and original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which automotive seals and gaskets are made. If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 provides the same advantages as it does when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks before using Mobil 1. ExxonMobil also recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.
          3 ~ Tudor's
          Henry Ford said
          "It's all nuts and bolts"


          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

          Comment


          • #15
            If your A smokes blue out the tail, Run synthetic it burns clear
            3 ~ Tudor's
            Henry Ford said
            "It's all nuts and bolts"


            Mitch's Auto Service ctr

            Comment


            • CSPIDY
              CSPIDY commented
              Editing a comment
              very true, I have a Toyota MR2 Spyder that is very prone to using oil and you never see it out the tailpipe. they have a problem where the oil passages in the pistons clog and the oil gets pushed out the exhaust. the fix is to run a full synthetic oil. I have never had a problem with mine.
              the kicker is they have precats in the exhaust manifold, when the oil hits the precats it breaks the honeycomb ceramic material down and it gets pulled back into the engine and destroys the cylinder walls.

            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              I think there may be much more to it than that. If the pre cats break down they may also get blocked and cause a restricted exhaust.(backpressure) The recommended use of a good synthetic may be for the superior oil flow and the ability to keep the pistons cleaner. I doubt that it is recommended so that you won’t see blue smoke even though synthetic burns clear.

            • CSPIDY
              CSPIDY commented
              Editing a comment
              Yes the majority of the precats ends up blocking the main cat and the engine loses power to boot

          • #16
            I think i am just learning something new and exciting!! I would love to switch to a detergent oil and maybe even a multi viscosity? If that would be a benefit? Here is the real question for me my motor has around 6000 miles on it l change it spring and winter it always looks perfectly clean on the stick would I have to pull the engine pan or could I just switch over/ or would there be a proper process thanks so much for all of your help I feel like I am learning thanks to you guys
            Joe.

            Comment


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              Joe
              If you have 6000 miles on a fresh motor, no you do not need to clean anything out. Just switch to a detergent oil
              You do not need to run a filter if you are using detergent oil, but still change it at 500 mile intervals. You can add ZDDP if you want to or forgoe it your choice.
              Check out our oil type poll in the powertrain technical forum. There you will see what folks use by their vote

          • #17
            One other thing I have been adding zddp for the past 6 years would I still benefit from this addictive?

            Comment


            • #18
              FWIW: In 1959 my engine came from a guy who had just tried to set his own valves himself. With valves not seating, he burnt his new Model A valves in a short time. He got disgusted, removed his newly rebuilt engine, and put his old engine back in his Model A. Local Ford dealer senior mechanic resurfaced these same Model A valves for me for Free.

              His newly removed Model A engine was mentioned from bar to bar from a bar 20 miles away, (my Dad had (2) bars), and my Dad's Godchild, a professional mechanic, who knew this guy, later brought it to me for "Free" at about midnight on a Saturday night after making a Bar-Deal with the former owner. They both belonged to the same deer hunting camp.

              Both my professional mechanic Uncle and my mechanic Dad showed me how to re-set these Babbitt bearings on this engine after we removed same, just like their ancestors going back to 1848 on their steam boats.

              Babbitt bearing pouring and setting in 1959 was not a new science where one had to have newly discovered aluminum foil and Plastic-Gage.

              So, we had no foil, no Plastic-gauge, or where some recommend pieces of shim stock for setting Babbitt bearings.

              Plastic-Gage did not begin to surface until about the mid 1950's ..... careful detailed vintage "hands-on-training" for setting Babbitt was what I learned ..... from 1959-1996, (37) years and no Babbitt resetting, and no shims removed with this new recommended non-detergent Havoline oil changed "every" 500 miles.

              I re-set my Town Sedan Babbitt bearings the same vintage way 12 years ago, after having the crankshaft counter-weighted ..... no knocks ..... splash system need oil film ....... all this later recommended Model A Babbitt tight crap is what caused so Many Model A engines to freeze up in a few miles over the past 20+ years ..... even the Sears Roebuck thousands of engines in the 1930's and 1940's never had this tight crap failure mentioned so often.

              No doubt we have far better lubrication today than non-detergent oil; not to mention those few Forum members who still believe in burning their used corn cobs while watching Black and White TVs.

              Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 02-07-2019, 10:19 PM.

              Comment


              • #19
                Originally posted by Jm29henry View Post
                I think i am just learning something new and exciting!! I would love to switch to a detergent oil and maybe even a multi viscosity? If that would be a benefit? Here is the real question for me my motor has around 6000 miles on it l change it spring and winter it always looks perfectly clean on the stick would I have to pull the engine pan or could I just switch over/ or would there be a proper process thanks so much for all of your help I feel like I am learning thanks to you guys
                Joe.
                It was suggested to me that you should run a filter with a detergent oil. With only 6000 miles and changing oil frequently you may be ok. Might just need to do more frequent changes. The oil will tell you. The straight oil is like ink. My pan had sludge below the baffle just as described in another post. Dropping the pan and pulling the side cover was very easy. If you do that it will give you peace of mind.
                28 Tudor
                57 Tbird
                2kMR2 Spyder
                62 Willys Pickup

                Wise man once told me you don’t know what you don’t know

                Comment


                • #20
                  Originally posted by Jm29henry View Post
                  One other thing I have been adding zddp for the past 6 years would I still benefit from this addictive?
                  The Shell Rotella is suppose to have Zink in it. I have read that most of the Zink has been removed. I have also read that it’s not necessary to add Zink. Unless you run your engine hard all the time. I know of a lot of people run the Shell and have not heard a bad word. At least not yet.
                  Last edited by CSPIDY; 02-07-2019, 11:29 PM.
                  28 Tudor
                  57 Tbird
                  2kMR2 Spyder
                  62 Willys Pickup

                  Wise man once told me you don’t know what you don’t know

                  Comment


                  • 1930 Closed Cab PU
                    1930 Closed Cab PU commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I believe Shell Rotella is diesel motor oil, diesels do not have catalytic convertors? Zink was Government ordered cut back /removed from Automotive motor oil when it was discovered zinc was harmful to catalytic convertors. So zinc is ok in non-catalytic vehicles. I've also read in a couple of places too much Zinc is actually long term harmful to motors, so more than recommended is not better. Again this is my reading/research, hopefully my sources were/are correct.

                  • CSPIDY
                    CSPIDY commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Agreed, have you read any of “Bob the oil guy”?

                  • 1930 Closed Cab PU
                    1930 Closed Cab PU commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Yes, Bob the Oil Guy is one of the sources. I think another was the Brad Penn website?

                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Bob the Oil Guy's site is a good reference for anything oil related

                • #21
                  Mitch, how in God's name do all these crazy myths get started???
                  What you described about oil also pertains to a zillion myths about Model As, such as antifreeze will harm the block, use high test for easier starts, pump the brakes for better action, the 4-blade fan is OK, you don't really need the newer 2-blade, put soap on the fan belt so it won't squeak, don't leave the battery on the ground else it will discharge, where does all this nonsense all come from, and how does it get around so easily??????????

                  Comment


                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    A lot probably is armchair mechanics

                • #22
                  I know I'll get slammed for this but whatever. My engine has moly rings, I didn't put them there, AER did. I use 10W-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic. It doesn't leak anymore than when I had 10W-30 regular oil in it. It does NOT use oil, in other words go out the tail pipe. It has 15k on it since the short block was rebuilt. I change it at about 2k beings I don't have an oil filter on it yet. My oil does look cleaner since I put an air filter on it, K&N 7" long.

                  Comment


                  • CSPIDY
                    CSPIDY commented
                    Editing a comment
                    This is good stuf, I think if you don’t have leaks maybe this would be the best solution. Too expensive is be dripping on the floor.

                • #23
                  Hi Dennis,

                  I greatly admire gentlemen like yourself, and anybody posting any actual single or multiple good and helpful Model A "experience(s)", even if it contradicts any or all of our past Model A Forum repeated Myths.

                  No need to ever fear getting slammed. Just smile, it really can become even more humorous.

                  If one goes back and begins reading our 20+ years of past Modern Model A Restoration Forums, one can witness where there is a Fact to this old, very often used saying:


                  "If you mention any falsehood often enough, people will sooner or later believe it."

                  Model A air filters, oil filters and detergent oil offer absolutely NO engine protection ?????????

                  These same Model A guys who repeated this, in my humble opinion, resemble the Great Human Minds who really thought Columbus, (or anyone else before him), would sail out on our Flat Planet and fall off the edge?

                  Parts of past Model A Forums years ago are an entertaining as reading the Darwin Awards ....... but just hold on, if you search, there will be more entertaining Model A posts coming in the future ...... but I think far less and few between on this VFF Forum. LOL

                  Comment


                  • H. L. Chauvin
                    H. L. Chauvin commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I forgot to mention in addition to past myth arguments, our past exciting Model A Forum War Movies, and "Political Clicks" years ago where several Model A owners would get in bloody opposition fights, until one guy would decide on a military Retrograde Movement of Retreat ............. private emails I heard of and read even had death threats.

                    Some final words would be something like: "I'm outta here!" ........................ and poor fellow never come back.

                    It was really sad to see innocent feelings get hurt ...... many senior Forum members back then vanished.

                • #24
                  All of you out there in VFF land know what I do and what I run, but I will say it once again, the cheapest 20w/50 from Walmart and oil filter. Change as often as you think for your driving style.
                  You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

                  Comment


                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Didn't your engine recently Grenade?

                  • DaWizard
                    DaWizard commented
                    Editing a comment
                    NO, LOL, but it does still have that damned noisy timing gear!

                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Just having some fun... put synthetic in it and the noise will go away

                  • DaWizard
                    DaWizard commented
                    Editing a comment
                    So will all the funding I am trying to save to get to Dearborn!

                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I hope you can make it. I’m looking forward to that fancy dinner you promised

                  • Dennis
                    Dennis commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Wiz, where did you get the cam gear? Did you check the gear teeth lash? All the way around not just one spot. The bad aluminum gear I had was from the boys down the street from you....

                  • DaWizard
                    DaWizard commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Dennis, this one came with the engine, and was purchased locally. I did the piece of paper all around the gears and it was very close. No real tight spots, but no loose spots either, I was surprised. I have no idea where the gear came from. Believe me, I wouldn't keep a gear that would grenade the engine.

                • #25
                  Agree with reply #24 in that any oil company's recommended modern, detergent oil is far superior for experiencing a long lasting Model A engine than that of any oil company's recommended modern non-detergent oil.

                  Also changing detergent oil often, (with or without a Model A oil filter), can add years of life to any Model A engine; and, changing cheap detergent oil often appears better than changing much higher priced detergent oil at less time intervals.

                  Worried about: What's in your wallet? Reply #24 is great advice.

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