I put my mirrors on the top screw hole of stanchions on my '29 RPU and now the windshield wants to hit towards the bottom of stanchion on drivers side. I have loosened here and there tightened with not being able to center windshield. It worked fine with just the bottom screws in. To attach stanchions on a Brookville body you use a one piece backing plate with two threaded holes that sits behind where stanchion is placed. I'm thinking of cutting it into two halves. Reason is with the mirrors installed you can not screw the bottom screw flush. I'm thinking there is twisting misaligning the stanchion plus the bottom screw looks like crap. Thoughts... if any of this makes sense.
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I'm thinking some 5/16 nuts and lock washers instead of this pillar backing plate....it is causing a twisting which I believe is related to the windshield not centering and rubbing stanchion.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 4 photos.Comment
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Beauford, I would try grinding the corners down on you flat stock pieces first and try it again. Maybe a slight twist of the flat stock would help also. The upper front part of the flat stock might be pushing against the rounded off part of your pillar. That's all I got, PatLast edited by pAAt; 08-20-2017, 06:31 PM.Model A's and of course the famous AA'sComment
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I have never used them, but have often wondered how well those from Brookville would work, as they appear to bear little resemblance to the originals that Ford used. A few years ago I took a few pictures of an original that was removed from the pillar. I threaded long screws into both holes in an attempt to show how the installed screws were not parallel to each other in any plane. I'll check - if I still have them and can find them I will post to show what I mean. Originals were riveted to the door pillar using a third hole located between the two threaded ones. If they aren't attached in some similar manner to the pillar, or if you use nuts only, you'll likely be sorry the first time that you need to remove the windshield posts or even need to tighten up the mirrors or screws as whatever is on the inside will likely turn with the screw and you'll have to remove the dash trim piece just to perform a simple tightening. I'll try to find pictures ASAP.Comment
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Interesting...yes the dash panel would be a pain as it as well is a snug fit. I figured if I use the nuts with the locking rings that are attached to the nut I would be in good shape. The mirror I would not worry about coming loose as it has a counter nut on the outside. All I know is that backing plate binds with the mirror. The angles of both the screw and mirror are not straight. Plate is twisting. Grinding the corners that Paat mentioned above may be a option as well. Pics would be great and appreciated. Brookville makes a great product but even like a 80 year old RPU it needs to be tweeked.
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Beauford, your going to have to open a Model A garage soon ! Big money in it and you could go to fine events in Philly like Mitch.png "smile")
Model A's and of course the famous AA'sComment
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Very trueComment
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Here's the pictures I referred to in earlier post. Looking at the Brookville ones it's easy to see that they likely need a lot of modification to do the job properly.
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Windshield Stancheon mounting bars (Brookville).jpgWindshield stantion BARS 003.jpgWindshield stantion BARS 004.jpgWindshield stantion BARS 006.jpgWindshield stantion BARS 007.jpg1928-29 Ford Roadster-Phaeton-Pickup COWL PILLAR ASSEMBLY 003 (copy #2).JPG
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Oh Beauford, if you are using the slot screws and thread lock, you may not be able to get them apart later. The nut you can hold, but the slot screw will vanish if use a screwdriver. No purchase to knock that Loktite loose. You will almost always need to use heat! If you use anything, make it a lock washer. -
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