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Engine fit question - new thinner rear motor mount rubber. UPDATE

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  • Engine fit question - new thinner rear motor mount rubber. UPDATE

    I plan to install my rebuilt engine in my coupe tomorrow. I put new rear motor mount rubber in, but have not tightened up the bolts yet (per Les Andrews's suggestion.) My mounts now measure 16-3/4" inside, side to side. My flywheel housing measures 16-7/8". The new rubber makes the fit space1/8" too narrow. I don't have a frame spreader. It appears as though tightening the mount bolts might squeeze the rubber enough to make up that 1/8". What do you suggest?
    Ray Horton
    Senior Member
    Last edited by Ray Horton; 08-20-2017, 08:47 PM.

  • #2
    Ray i would shim that up if were me because it seems to me you will put a strain on the frame in that area just my two cents worth but I needed a frame spreader to get my motor out and that should be the case for you as well.

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    • #3
      he's too narrow not too wide. As you suggest, I would try compressing the rubber more, and use a little grease on the FWH pads. You only need 1/16 each side
      For whatever reason we have yet to have the need for a frame spreader

      Comment


    • #4
      I have never found the need for a spreader either.

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      • #5
        Why do you suppose Andrews says don't tighten those rear mount bolts? Is it to leave the mounts loose so those rear engine mounting bolts that are so difficult to get into the FWH have a little slop to find their hole? And so once those four are started, then tighten the three mount bolts in the frame, and then do the final tightening on the four big bolts? That's the only reason I can see for Les's suggestion.
        Ray Horton
        Senior Member
        Last edited by Ray Horton; 08-19-2017, 11:49 PM.

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        • #6
          Ray, I am sure you are on to something. Bottom line would be tighten/loosen whatever you need to in order to make it work.
          We usually tighten the 3 bolts right up. Then we have a set of short 1/2" bolts which we ground the tips to a point, and use them as pilot bolts into the FWH, to help locate them, and in some cases just use the pilot bolts as the final bolts. Lots of wiggling always helps, too. Do you have a helper? You can jiggle it all in place easier w/ a helper.

          There have been cases where we egged out the large MM holes a bit where things seemed to just not line up. A little bit of this does not hurt.

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          • #7
            Originally posted by tbirdtbird View Post
            Ray, I am sure you are on to something. Bottom line would be tighten/loosen whatever you need to in order to make it work.
            We usually tighten the 3 bolts right up. Then we have a set of short 1/2" bolts which we ground the tips to a point, and use them as pilot bolts into the FWH, to help locate them, and in some cases just use the pilot bolts as the final bolts. Lots of wiggling always helps, too. Do you have a helper? You can jiggle it all in place easier w/ a helper.

            There have been cases where we egged out the large MM holes a bit where things seemed to just not line up. A little bit of this does not hurt.
            I do have a helper, and I'm pretty sure we can work it out. We've both been through this drill several times in the past. But I was just wondering about Andrews's theory. It might be worth a try. I'll let you know what happens and how we fit it.

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          • #8
            I've read where some had purchased new pads that were too thick.

            The last two sets I used came from Snyder's and were a perfect fit.

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            • #9
              Originally posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
              I've read where some had purchased new pads that were too thick.

              The last two sets I used came from Snyder's and were a perfect fit.
              Tom, do you know the thickness of the Snyder's pads? I don't remember where I got mine, but they are less than 1/4", but slightly more than 1/8", and are quite flexible and seem to compress pretty easily. I've had them about 3 yrs, I think.

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              • Tom Wesenberg
                Tom Wesenberg
                Senior Member
                Tom Wesenberg commented
                Editing a comment
                No, I don't recall the thickness of the Snyder's pads, but they were just right, and the engine slipping right in without needing a spreader. I would tighten the 6 frame bolts before installing the engine. I always put some grease on the mounts to help the housing slip into place.
                Tom Wesenberg
                Senior Member
                Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 08-20-2017, 09:14 AM.

              • CarlG
                CarlG
                Senior Member
                CarlG commented
                Editing a comment
                Not sure what the thickness of the pads are either, but last time I did this job, I bought a set from Bert's and another set from Snyder's. I ended up using the rubber out of one set (the thinner of the two) and the bolts out of the other set (the longer of the two). Neither set worked for me straight out of the box. Right now I can't remember whose rubber I did use.

            • #10
              Engine is in, but the holes on the DS rear motor mount don't line up, even though the PS does and the front MM does. I'm going to loosen the DS MM tomorrow and see what I can do. The new rubber seemed to work OK, even though I had only 1/16" (!) diff between the mounts and the FWH. The real problem was getting the splines lined up. The whole job took us two hours, one of the more difficult engine installs I've done. I actually had one that slipped in in less than five minutes once! But not this one. And not with new MM rubber.

              Tomorrow: tackle the rear motor mount issue. :-o
              Ray Horton
              Senior Member
              Last edited by Ray Horton; 08-21-2017, 12:42 AM.

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              • Mitch
                Mitch

                Administrator

                Mitch commented
                Editing a comment
                how far is it off? i have used a short punch to help line it up

              • Ray Horton
                Ray Horton
                Senior Member
                Ray Horton commented
                Editing a comment
                Mitch: Maybe 3/32" at the most. I'm not too concerned; I think as Dave suggests I can loosen things up a bit and rassle it into position (as I've had to do on previous engines). But with all the eclipse business tomorrow I may not get to it as soon I'd like. (We are in the path of totality).

            • #11
              loosen'em all and start jiggling and using anything you can as an alignment tool.
              The splines are always fun!

              FWH dialed onto the block, of course?

              Comment


              • Mitch
                Mitch

                Administrator

                Mitch commented
                Editing a comment
                Once i got a dummy bolt the same size, threaded a nut on it and ground the threaded end to a point. Then remove the nut which cleans up the threads and it acted as a pilot to line in up as i lightly screwed it in of course being careful to not cross thread it. Experience comes into play on this method..
                then once the original crossed drilled bolt for the wire went in like butter..

            • #12
              Originally posted by tbirdtbird View Post
              loosen'em all and start jiggling and using anything you can as an alignment tool.
              The splines are always fun!

              FWH dialed onto the block, of course?
              Yes.

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              • #13
                Didn't have to loosen up the MM bolts after all. Finally just wiggled it into place.

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                • #14
                  That's good ray when i put the engine back in my tudor i had the rear end loose from the rear spring got the engine in real easy and settled and then brought the rear end up and snugged all of that up.

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