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Replacing starter brushes

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  • Replacing starter brushes

    What do you use to unsolder/solder them to the winding strip? TIA

  • #2
    We have an ancient massive high wattage soldering iron. Avoid a torch totally, you will melt everything in site, and the enamel insulation on the windings will be destroyed.
    Even with the large iron,use alligator clips and such as heat sinks in the vicinity of where you are working to keep the heat from the windings

    I can look up the wattage rating later if anyone is interested


    • #3
      I would be


      • #4
        Here is a good thread by Tom and what we both use for brushes. It gives you an idea on watts. Mine is a Wen 250. See the pic below of the cool gel. This stuff works real good, for all applications. I got mine off of Amazon.
        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 1 photos.
        3 ~ Tudor's
        Henry Ford said
        "It's all nuts and bolts"

        Mitch's Auto Service ctr


        • #5
          Mine turns out to be 100 watts.
          250 would be even better, the idea is to get in and out without heating up the entire length of the copper. The colder the iron, the longer it takes to get to melting temp, the heat is just conducted away from the joint to elsewhere where you don't need it/want it


          • #6
            I don’t understand. I have a weller D550 which is 240/325 watts. I put a new tip in it, and I can’t begin to melt the solder on the old brushes. It’s like the tip is too small to heat an area that big.
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            • JDupuis
              JDupuis commented
              Editing a comment
              Maybe tighten up the tip nuts a bit more.
              Or press harder onto the work surface. I can "feel" when my gun starts to work, it has a slight vibration in it
              Sounds strange, but my Weller works this way.

          • #7
            Hmmm, is that new tip tinned? It doesn't look it.
            Without tinning ( an outer coat of solder melted on there) it will oxidize rapidly and not transmit the heat well. Even a tinned tip needs to be scraped once in a while for the same reason.

            Clean the tip back to good copper color, and tin it using radio rosin core solder. Avoid plumbing solder and flux because the acid content will corrode the tip.

            Once you do that, try to solder together 2 large gauge pieces of wire, such as number 8, and see if it works. If not, the gun is shot


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              Like Dave said clean up the tip and work the holding nuts back and forth

          • #8
            That is one thing that I take to a guy that solders that kind of stuff all day long.I have a huge soldering iron with a tip a big as my thumb.I have to learn all over again every time I do it,and by the time I get things hot enough I've gotten other things hot that I shouldn't have.I watched this guy use my iron on some brushes,it took him seconds.I realize it might be kind of late,but do you really need the brushes replaced?Good Model A starter brushes look like they are worn out.If the braided cables are blackened,burnt,brittle and crispy that is a good reason to replace them.


            • #9
              What # 8 is referring to is an electricians house wiring solder iron. Made for soldering house wiring before it became acceptable/approved to use twist/crimp connectors. The size of the heating element and tip acted as a reservoir of stored heat, so the tip did not immediately cool when trying to solder something that has some mass (like a large winding/coil, large terminal, etc.). As # 8 mentions, must do it quickly with a lot of added flux so insulation does not heat/melt. Here is an example of the type of iron I used when I took a home electrical wiring course when I was in high school in 1970. I do not know what is on the other side of the plate, if the soldered connection is additionally screwed down, unscrew it.



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