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  • Dash from my car...

    There is still life here. Albeit slow. Working on water outlet. Hope to have it installed this weekend.
    I took the dash out to start the wiring. It had a 30 amp ammeter but the screws on the back would spin when you tried to unfasten the wires! So I ordered a new one from Snyders. It was loose in the dash and the needle was stuck at the bottom. I emailed them and they said that they fall off (the needle) and get stuck on the magnets. Which it did. Popped the front off and replaced the needle. Put the front back on and it looks OK. I used some silicone like glue and put 4 spots on the back to hold the ammeter still (it rattled and would turn in the hole. Now seems to be good.
    My dash was horrible. Terribly pitted and rusty. I had some gray hammer-tone paint and had an idea. Clean up the rust (treat it, using your juice T-Bird) and I panted it black first and then the front I painted gray hammer-tone. The pits give it the texture it needs - LOL. Looks great in my book. Remember mine is to be a driver.

    As always I have a couple of questions -
    1.) Can the face of the speedo be removed easily? I'd like to clean the edge. The dash and the upper dash and everything in the dash had been painted with some snotty silver at one time. I want to clean off the rim around the glass around the speedo (underneath the finish is perfect).
    2.) Can I check the speedo? Like get a piece of speedo cable and chuck it into a drill. Car didn't have a speedo cable or housing at all. I'm assuming replacements are available...
    Last edited by KB9JLO; 11-30-2018, 07:55 PM.
    Dan Reynolds

  • #2
    There should be two screws and two nuts that hold the speedo in. The nuts are caged in but can slide out once its apart so watch you don't lose them. Once out hit the speedo rim with a little steel wool. Yes you can chuck the cable in a drill. That is what I do and if I recall you need to spin it in reverse
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      I even got one of those pocket phillips screw drivers and chucked that in the drill. That grabbed the speedo drive also

    • KB9JLO
      KB9JLO commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes, it has those screws Mitch. Pretty slick way to mount it I think. Good call on the screwdriver bit...It seems 'free' it moves back and forth. The trip odometer works.

    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      That is good news
      Don't open it up lol. just clean the rim

  • #3
    Semi-Chrome will help the speedometer rim a lot. Most auto parts stores have it, as well as motorcycle shops.

    Comment


    • KB9JLO
      KB9JLO commented
      Editing a comment
      I've heard of that Tom. I'll look that up. I have a bunch of free credit at Amazon right now....

  • #4
    Hell Dan, that dash looks better than mine now!

    To answer your question, yes, the face can be removed from the speedo, to do it takes finesse.

    What I do is with my shop apron on across my lap, set the speedo face down in my lap, DO NOT remove the screw or seal from the back, not needed!

    Now, with the speedo in yer lap atop something spanning your legs, gently set the edge of a LARGE blade screwdriver on the thin edge of the bezel and tap lightly first one side, then the other. The two mounting ears and a snug fit are what hold the bezel on, so no hard bangin, it will slide off.

    To check the speedo, you can use an old cable end in a drill, but you MUST run in REVERSE!!

    If it doesn't turn the odometer, get it repaired professionally, unless you are able to disassemble a wrist watch and reassemble it and have it work, have a pro fix it.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      I don't have a shop dress.

    • DaWizard
      DaWizard commented
      Editing a comment
      Yea, that's because you don't do any work! I wear a shop apron because I respect the other's car and don't want my belly warmer belt buckle leavin imprints!

    • KB9JLO
      KB9JLO commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Wiz. It just so happened the pits in the dash and the hammer-tone worked out so well together. I'm going to do the same thing to the upper dash panel (under the windshield) but that's for later.

    • merjohn
      merjohn commented
      Editing a comment
      Hmmm. VFF logo’ed shop coats and aprons. Something to think about.

  • #5
    Nice job on the dash Dan.
    I have nothing further to add, as all the info above is correct in my book. . Jeff
    Twiss Collector Car Parts

    Comment


    • #6
      Dan, you are lucky to find an old speedo that still turns freely.

      Most are seized or very tight.

      I use a very small tap, the square on the end is the right size, same as a piece of cable.

      It is up to you whether you leave the speedo as is, but here is what I did to all of mine.

      Remove the one back screw and the whole speedo will come out of housing

      Pop the oval plate off from under, you will see old congealed grease, clean ans wash all this out and re grease.

      I then drill a 1/8th hole in the pot metal body down thru the threaded screw hole in back until I hit the mainshaft. then drizzle some thin oil down hole as I spin the speedo with the drill.

      Any seizing of the speedo breaks the cable, so best to do a little oiling as preventative maintenance.

      Comment


      • KB9JLO
        KB9JLO commented
        Editing a comment
        Pooch - Well mine was tight after all. I thought since the dial was moving around it was OK. I did as you said and opened that oval plate - yuck! I've got most of the gunk out. I've rinsed it a few times with alcohol. Figuring it would dissolve it and evaporate fast. It is now movable but will require more lubrication as you suggest. How clean should I get it?
        Use grease in that little chamber? I think I have a tube of white lithium grease somewhere.
        I will follow your tip and drill through that back screw hole to lube the main shaft. Not as complicated as it first looks. Especially when you pop that plate off and see down inside there. the two gears meshing with each other.
        BTW, I loosened the top 4 screws and lifted the dial assy. off and kept it out of harms way.

      • DaWizard
        DaWizard commented
        Editing a comment
        Dan, do NOT use white lithium grease, you should have at least one tube of some type of Moly grease for just this type of need. Moly grease fills in and lubricates the small pores in the metals, does more good, white turns to the gunk you have been removing.

      • pooch
        pooch commented
        Editing a comment
        Dan, so did you think it was free because the speed drum was turning OK ?

        Yep, the main shaft gets tight as the old pot metal grows and any original lube is long gone..

        The proper job is to dismantle the whole speedo, but it is a delicate job to get the mainshaft out.

        With the speed drum off, how tight is it to turn the magnet disc/plate by hand ?

        This should turn very free without resistance , same as you should be able to turn the cable input freely by hand.

        I have had about 80% success rate in freeing these up .

        If you are successful, run the speedo by drill in reverse for a few minutes and feel for any heat build-up in body.

        No point in using it , if it is suspect, or you will just lose a cable as well.

        I grab any speedo that is possibly usable at swap meets for spares.

        I have 3 rods running original speedos ATM, that do 65 MPH all the time, and a couple of freed up spares and a big box of parts.

        Hopefully this lot should see me out.

    • #7
      Dan that dash looks nice, good job. Good to hear your driver is coming along! Hugh

      Comment


      • #8
        Dan, I have a couple of original ammeters in bits and pieces left over if you need one. I am just a few miles from you. Art

        Comment


        • #9
          Good info from Keith above, he has been there and done that. I'm not sure if you have seen these articles yet but there are some exploded views and other info in this list.

          http://www.modelahouse.com/tech/speedometer/index.html

          Don't use white lithium grease on anything and if you have any around just trash it.
          3 ~ Tudor's
          Henry Ford said
          "It's all nuts and bolts"


          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

          Comment


          • Jeff/Illinois
            Jeff/Illinois commented
            Editing a comment
            Funny as I just opened up a sealed container I had from the 90's and it is as hard as a rock!! Won't be using that stuff again.

        • #10
          After removing the oval plate and cleaning out the old hard grease, I then put a few drops of oil in the pocket and spin with an electric drill for several seconds to work in the oil. I then put some Mystik JT-6 High Temp red grease in and replace the oval cover. I also use a wood toothpick to put a drop of motor oil on each of the gears and shaft ends.

          Comment


          • #11
            As stated, the Simi chrome or Wenol are great for removing tarnish, etc. Also, Mothers Mag Wheel polish is good, even on zinc running board trim and plastic headlamps. We sometimes use a clear enamel coating to cover the speedo rings or other small parts that are susceptible to corrosion, though depending on the clear used, can dull them a little. We keep a couple of cans of Testors clear over coat enamel and lacquer for touch up, especially the enamel over woodgraining because it's relatively inert and won't lift the finishes below.
            By the way, love the dash panel !!
            Last edited by plyfor; 12-01-2018, 11:21 AM.

            Comment


            • #12
              PLEASE, PLEASE send the intact speedo to a Professional Speedo Overhaul Guy!!!!---Why????? cuz I told you so!!!!
              Dad Piecesandbits

              Comment


              • #13
                Dan what you did to that Inst. Panel is OK!! Looks pretty decent!!

                Comment


                • #14
                  Does someone rebuild speedos? How much does that typically cost. I got it loose but not what I would call smooth at all. I don't need this to see if the car will start - of course. Just wanted to plan for the future. I might try hooking it up to a drill and seeing how it goes but I really don't think it move free enough. Mitch you were right about the correct size phillips bit - it locks in there perfectly.
                  Dan Reynolds

                  Comment


                  • DaWizard
                    DaWizard commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Dan, DO NOT put the drill to it if there is any sticky to it at all!!

                    It is so easy to break up the pot metal that holds it all together. BTW, it turns reverse.

                • #15
                  Yep, you will feel if the lube is working very quickly or the pot metal is seizing more with heat.

                  The mainshaft is what has to turn freely.

                  Comment


                  • #16
                    here are your rebuilders.
                    https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...6-speedometers
                    BTW lacquer thinner is a way better cleaner than alcohol

                    Comment

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