No announcement yet.

Oil Pan Gasket Leaks-- Gasket brand suggestions, experiences requested

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Oil Pan Gasket Leaks-- Gasket brand suggestions, experiences requested

    Just tried the Snyder's "no seal" oil pan gasket.We used no sealer as instructed. It seems to work ok on the sides at about 6 to 7'# of bolt torque but can't get the rear " no seal" bearing piece from the kit to seal well. Should we go to the thinner Fel Pro type composition/cork gasket all around and /or just for the rear bearing cap? The front teflon rope doesn't seal well either but maybe that needs some time to work in. Sealed all the corners, etc. with Perm 2.
    Any suggestions appreciated.

  • #2
    This is what I use as a reference and has done very well for me in the past.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


      BNCHIEF commented
      Editing a comment
      Followed the same advice on my motor as well no leaks,

  • #3
    Ok thanks; I think the problem is the gasket material and that the gasket sides were short at the front pulley and didn't cover over the white rope ends. We'll go back to the thinner cork/combo gasket but no fun with the splash pans on!. .. We installed very similar to the article pdf. by the way which was very helpful.


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      i always use the cork style
      that article is listed in the technical section under engine topics for future reference

  • #4
    Should we coat the cork gasket with copper coat or something similar? The article says not to but the old cork type we removed was wicking oil along the block edge. We will coat the bearing cap groove and the circular side on the pan.


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      I always just use a spray tack to hold it in place if I'm doing this in the car. No other sealer other than the spots u mentioned. Make sure there is no oil anywhere"s on the mounting surfaces. This is how i do it but other opinions may vary
      Some of the front oil pan bolts go into the oil, (they are not a blind hole) so put a little something on those threads. And again i stress make sure you have no oil residue at all..
      When tightening up the pan stop when you see the gasket start to move the slightest bit.

  • #5
    Originally posted by plyfor View Post
    Should we coat the cork gasket with copper coat or something similar? The article says not to but the old cork type we removed was wicking oil along the block edge. We will coat the bearing cap groove and the circular side on the pan.
    I have always used Form-a-gasket to attach any gasket to the "removed" part for ease of cleaning IF removal is needed. Now, as for using a sealer on the other side, I have used assembly grease which will squeeze out and leave both surfaces stuck together enough to hold a seal, and yet allow the gasket to be removed should the need arise. This has worked very well for me for eons.
    You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


    • #6
      When I got my engine from the engine builder he used the black permatex with no gasket. So far (3,000 miles) so good.
      Alaskan A's
      Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
      Model A Ford Club of America
      Model A Restorers Club
      Antique Automobile Club of America
      Mullins Owners Club


      • #7
        I also like the cork pan gasket, and I like to use a stick-um to hold it to the engine block, then a light coat of grease on the pan lip. This way the gasket stays in place and the pan should easily come off to check bearings. These pictures are from a customer's house and he had white lithium grease on hand. I usually like to use Mystik JT-6 red high temp grease for assembly, but this engine was started within a few days, so the white lithium didn't get a chance to separate or dry out.

        I cut a U shape in the front of the side gaskets to fit around the rope seal. Most times I have to trim a little of the rope, but leave enough to compress when the pan is bolted on. I also never soak rope seals, but tuck them into the groove, then form them with a socket, then oil and grease them. Notice I seal the rear main cap and bolts also.


      • #8
        we did the same as in photo 2 with ultra copper but didn't coat the bearing cap gasket -to- pan with Perm Aviation or similar. Our gasket in photo 1 didn't reach the pulley and was notched around the rope seal so both ropes touched. Probably better for the pan gasket to bridge the ropes.Photos very helpful, thanks.
        BTW, we're not sure if it's possible to reuse the thicker rubberized gasket as long as it didn't move. It is stuck to the block in a few places.
        Last edited by plyfor; 08-11-2017, 09:56 PM.


        • #9
          The Dog: advises me to STAY OUT of THIS THREAD!!!!
          Bill Quiet


          • BNCHIEF
            BNCHIEF commented
            Editing a comment
            That's a smart dog.

        • #10
          I've reused gaskets as long as they aren't damaged, or too flat. I apply a bit of sealer to them and installed the part before the sealer dries, if it's that type of sealer.


          • #11
            I'm tryin' HARD, to stay out of this.
            Bill Quiet


            • #12
              Update ; removed the no seal gaskets and installed the thinner cork / comp type with no added sealer except at the rear bearing cap and gasket intersections as shown. The clutch housing cover was also lightly sealed to the bearing cap cork The gaskets fit well and touched the front pulley sandwiched between the ropes. After some heatup / run in, the pan bolts needed to be retorque'd slightly to 5'#.


              • Mitch
                Mitch commented
                Editing a comment

            Related Topics


            • Terry, NJ
              Oil pan seals to gasket
              by Terry, NJ
              I've forgotten already and it's only been about 5-6 years, I swear....... How does one make the oil pan gaskets fit with new seals The seal are sticking up about 1/32 -1/16 on an inch. Do I lay the gasket end on the seal or do I cut off the end of the gasket. I seems obvious until you start to do it. These are new seals and gaskets.
              06-25-2020, 10:34 AM
            • Brian in Wheeling
              pan gasket
              by Brian in Wheeling
              What's the consensus? ( or is there one) for the best oil pan joint, assuming careful,skilled and proper installation. Paper (thin composite cardboard type), cork, or RTV sealant?
              11-07-2019, 03:30 PM
            • GARY FRANK
              Crankshaft rope type seal for 226 H flathead
              by GARY FRANK
              Just received oil pan and timing cover gaskets complete with upper and lower seals from Best Gasket. They are the newer type black "square" type with shinny particles in them. (graphite ?, mica?)
              Do they still require soaking in motor oil. Any tricks so keep them from spinning out other than a good compression with a cylindrical roller? Thanks, Gary Frank.
              12-19-2018, 04:38 PM
            • ClaudeC
              installing the oil pan.
              by ClaudeC
              I about ready to install my oil pan....I know the pan gasket comes in two halves, I know there is a rope gasket at the front of the pan. Are there any other pieces of gasket that I must be aware? I purchased an entire engine gasket set.
              01-30-2018, 04:28 PM
            • Fixitphil
              Wobbly crank drive pulley.
              by Fixitphil
              I need some pointers on replacing a crank pulley. I have a two-piece now. Which is best 1 or 2 piece? I need to replace the front crank/pan oil seal also. What parts do I need?
              04-16-2018, 11:22 PM
            • Mickey
              Carburetor gasket
              by Mickey
              Can I reuse a paper carburetor gasket with just a little sealer?
              10-02-2018, 07:13 AM
            • Beauford
              Pics of my small leak...
              by Beauford
              So I have installed a new cam gasket with RTV which helped very much as the other gasket had gotten wet/dried wrinkled. I was having oil only when shut down come on left side of fly housing down to center. I have snugged the pan bolts as rebuilder suggested and still have this. It really is not bad per say but how can oil come when car hasn't been started going on two weeks and has sat at a decline????...
              06-12-2017, 01:35 PM
            • ClaudeC
              Installing new "ROPE" gasket on crankshaft end
              by ClaudeC
              Digging the old gasket out of the oil pan is easy, so is installing the new rope gasket half in the pan. How about the rope gasket on the engine block. What is the best method for removing this old rope half and then reinstalling the new rope half.
              01-20-2018, 09:53 AM
            • Beauford
              Cork gaskets...
              by Beauford
              So I am wondering why when I install a new oil cork pan gasket and torque to spec and run the truck 50 miles I go back under and there is easily a quarter turn on each pan bolt. Isn't the oil suppose to expand the cork gasket. Yesterday I change out the valve galley gasket as I have had a little leak there with a cork one I had. I go to a easter parade in the city and back...50 miles or more round...
              04-21-2019, 06:08 PM
            • WMWS
              Head Gasket
              by WMWS
              I am getting ready to replace my head gasket. I know you all like the Best brand but which one. The copper 509C or the Graph tite 509G. Bratton's seams to like the Graph Tite 509G. Their number is 8081. I don't want the problem of having it stick to the block if I have to ever replace it again. What do you all recommend....
              05-25-2019, 05:33 PM