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28-29 Tudor rear top moulding

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  • 28-29 Tudor rear top moulding

    How does one bent the skinny two-piece, steel moldings to fit the car without destroying the moulding?
    pictures are welcome.

    Brian W.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Brian in Wheeling View Post
    How does one bent the skinny two-piece, steel moldings to fit the car without destroying the moulding? OR THE PAINT JOB
    pictures are welcome.

    Brian W.
    When you figure it out let me know, been there tried that!:

    We have an extra set of original ones that needs a little work if you want them. Someone drilled holes in the center of the outside trim to nail it on.

    I needed help with this a couple years ago on Lucy,, I only got armchair responses all of which none worked. Ended up getting a half decent set from Steve @ Berts
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

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    • #3
      I haven't tried this, but would one of the small tube benders work? They kind of look like a spring, and they can bend tubing without causing kinks.

      Comment


      • #4
        Since I have only removed them from rusty bodies with rotten wood I do not have any good advice on how best to accomplish this on a restored car with solid wood. Rod
        Much of the social history of the Western world, over the past three decades, has been a history of replacing what worked with what sounded good.

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        • #5
          Well, just trying to see what others have done that either worked or didn't.

          My thinking says this:
          - that they must be bent while together,
          - that they must be bent in TWO steps ( 1 for the forward radius bend, and 1 bend for the lower attachment point)
          - that some type of jig will need to be made up.

          If you try to bend the molding BOTH ways at the same time it wants to twist badly. So....to bend the forward radius ( copied from the car molding channel itself or a flattened out original molding base) I will make a wooden buck out of, say 3/4 inch plywood, cut with a saber saw, trace the radius thus obtained on a larger wooden base, then about 3/16 inch outboard of the radius curve, nail a few roofing nails along the very beginning of the curve till the heads are about 1/8" proud of the base wood. Then I will screw the wooden buck to the base right along the radius curve drawn previously. I will then insert the molding and begin the bend, carefully adding additional nails as needed to keep the molding from twisting.

          I believe once this first, main forward radius is achieved, then the downward bend would be a piece of relative cake!
          I'll take pictures and post later IF IT WORKS. If no workie, then no pics.

          Brian W.

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          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            Brian if it works you can market and sell these.. put me in line for the first one

        • #6
          What is the material they are made from?

          While building my PT Bomb I needed to bend some aluminum body lines to fit a double contour, we used a small amount of heat and clamps strategically places on a steel flat table. Granted, the bends were a bit less drastic than the A, but still.....
          You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

          Comment


          • Mitch
            Mitch commented
            Editing a comment
            very thin metal.. heat would do it in

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