Brake Adjuster Frozen

[Cape Codder]

Brakes were running pretty hot so tried to adjust the right rear one. Could not budge the adjuster even with an extension bar. Took drum off to find nothing wrong with the brakes, main or emergency. Tried to move adjuster again with no results.

Removed backer plate and put adjuster square in large vise, while putting mount bolts back in backer plate to try and turn backer plate. End result was we were able to break loose the adjuster. This adjuster was BACKED OUT to the max and then some. Brakes were adjusted properly when NEW backer plate and all other parts were installed approx. 10 months ago.

Question: How could this happen? How could that adjuster unscrew ALL THE WAY OUT?

[Mitch]

Cape
The adjusting wedge has notches in the nose that locks onto the brake adjusting shaft. this should prevent the wedge from turning on it's own. When adjusting the brakes you should feel a positive click from the detent. Sometimes dried up grease can clog the notches, so i always take them apart clean everything and re-grease the adjustment cavity. To take it apart you have to screw the adjustment wedge all the way in till it pops off the cap. after servicing it the cap gets staked back into place

[Rowdy]

Were the adjusting shafts binding? What condition are the springs in? Only 2 things I can think of that would take the tension off of the wedge where it could move on its own. Rod

[Cape Codder]

I understand what you write Mitch. The adjusting wedge was NEW and greased lightly. The adjusting shaft was NEW and lightly greased. All the springs were also NEW. This is ALL about the ADJUSTING WEDGE backing ALL the way out. NOTHING was out of line when the drum was removed.

[Mitch]

so when you say the adjusting wedge backed all the way out, you mean counter clockwise, so you lost your adjustment on that wheel? when you turn the adjuster you should feel a positive click/ notch

Rod i should have mentioned the springs!

[Mitch]

maybe someone messed with your car in the meet parking lot
it wasn't me

[Mitch]

are the threads ok and not loose? just another thought

[Cape Codder]

Mitch - Yes I mean counter clockwise and would have to assume the adjustment on that wheel was lost.
We will put it all back together tomorrow and check for the adjuster to see if it has a positive click. Springs are brand new and look good. When I turned the adjuster I did not feel the thread being loose but will look at that again tomorrow.

On another note the jumper cable you lent me is on it's way back to you. Mailed this morning! Could not figure out how you got that new wire in the end that goes into the distributor.

[Rowdy]

Keep us posted. Never heard of this happenning before. Always wanting to learn. Rod

[Mitch]

https://www.brattons.com/emergency-ignition-jumper-cable.html

[Dave in MD]

If the long return spring is good there is no way I can see the adjuster moving by itself. Are the threads that the adjuster goes into good?
Dave

[Mitch]

Cape i got the bypass cable today
thanks

[Mitch]

I am so glad to have finally met you

[Tom Wesenberg]

If the long return spring is good there is no way I can see the adjuster moving by itself. Are the threads that the adjuster goes into good?
Dave

I agree with Dave, although I did work on one guy's brakes where the brake adjusting shaft did bind slightly in the housing, so I had to tap it toward the wedge. Once in place all was fine.

Also, if the shoes were too tight, how did the drum slide off?

[Cape Codder]

Today we checked the Adjuster again and looks just like it did when we put it in NEW approx. 10 months ago and YES the threads are good. Also checked the TWO brake adjusting shafts and found neither binding. Also when putting back together we found the LONG return spring VERY springy (if there is such a word) or hard to install so we considered that good also. As to the shoes too tight, this was not the problem, they were actually too LOOSE. The reason that we got into this is that the drum was really HOT when returning from Gettysburg BUT could not turn this adjuster COUNTER clockwise, although it was determined that the drum / tire were not dragging so we continued the return trip. I will not be working on it again until possibly Monday so I will let everyone know the outcome. So far we have not found ANYTHING wrong! I hope that explains everything BUT I guess some / all of you are shaking your heads. I know I am because I have NEVER seen this happen!

[Mitch]

Keep us posted Cape

[Tom Wesenberg]

Has the rear end been worked on lately? Did anyone mix up inch pounds with foot pounds. I saw someone do that, and the pinion bearings were very tight.

I shot my differential after a 17 miles drive on an 85 degree day, and the axle housing was only a few degrees warmer than the air temp.

[Cape Codder]

No Tom no rear end work done.

[Cape Codder]

Tom, did you get my PM?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Tom, did you get my PM?

I got the one about timing.

[Cape Codder]

To All,
Well we took the whole right rear wheel assembly apart, all the way down to taking the backer plate off the rear end. The one thing we found wrong was the REAR CAM WAS PUT IN WRONG which is Item 32 in Brattons Assembly Diagram. We had TURNED it 180 degrees from the way it should have been. Because it was installed incorrectly when the brakes were applied with maximum force the CAM came right out of the rollers. So the brake shoes at the cam end could not retract and therefore were rubbing against the drum. The rear cam (for those of you that don't know) goes thru the Rear Brake Cam Shaft Item 31 and separates the shoes when steeping on the brake. Took it for a ride yesterday and all is well!!

[Mitch]

WOW Thanks for the update i was wondering what u found