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  • Ignition questions

    #1. Why do many set the points at .020”,instead of .022” which of course is the max recommended by ford? It seems that it would take longer before they would have to be re adjusted?
    #2. If you have a fuse on the starter that controls the ignition, and it blows, will the stock generator have enough time to damage itself before the engine dies?
    thanks

  • #2
    1. .020" is a standard for many cars, and easy to remember. With cam lube I seldom have to check the points gap.

    2. The generator would have to run at high output for over a minute before it heats enough damage itself.
    Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 10-12-2018, 01:52 AM.

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    • #3
      Thanks Tom

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      • #4
        If you ever need to run a Model A generator without it being connected to the battery, then just ground the output stud, and you will keep the output at 0 volts.

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        • #5
          When I set a new set of points I always set them at .022 as well as the grease on the cam. This in my opinion allows them to "wear in" and after this they normally end up at about .020 and about the time they hit .018 the cam block on the points is totally worn out because I wasn't there to continue lubing the cam, which should have been by the owner who is now calling me to find out why it is beginning to run funny.

          One word of advice. I have noted that the aftermarket "modern plate and points" have had way too much play in the stock distributor housing causing the plate to jump around and run like crap! I have also noted that the rotor is rubbing on the top of the movable point and causing the engine to run like crap. So Beware, the modern plate and points may not be the best replacement for a good change of stock points!
          Champagne don't drive me crazy, cocaine don't make me lazy, ain't nobody's business but my own.

          Candy is dandy, but liquor is quicker, you can drink all the liquor down in Costa Rica, ain't nobody's business but yer own.

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          • Tom Wesenberg
            Tom Wesenberg commented
            Editing a comment
            I always use original used points and plates in the distributor. They will most likely outlast me.

          • 2manycars
            2manycars commented
            Editing a comment
            The points available for the so called "modern" points (1974 is modern????) have plastic rub blocks, which wear quickly. I use restored and replated Original plates, and have no problem with them.

        • #6
          I think you're right about setting the points initially at .022". The block will wear initially and level off when properly lubed. The difference between .018 and .022 will change the base timing a bit as well as dwell/coil saturation time but shouldn't be able to be really noticed.

          The original points set-up is pretty bullet proof now that decent points and condensers are available and the points are easier to set.

          I don't have a problem with the 'modern' set-up as long as it is not the wireless version. I've been running one for probably 15 years because I kept hearing that they were junk. With quality points they work fine. An original distributor has been in an emergency box in the rear collecting dust and rust all these years. I should probably clean it up, install it and put the 'modern' one in the rear spare stuff box.

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