Please comment on the NuRex timing tool

[tbirdtbird]

We often see that some owners like to use the NuRex timing tool, you know, turn the tool 2 full rotations clockwise, then stop when the edge of tool is opposite the #4 contact. (which edge?).
I have never seen the tool or had it in my hand to compare to the usual method. Have only seen pix.
Would appreciate if users of the tool who have timed their cars this way and the standard Ford way have seen any difference. It is getting the backlash correct that makes you or breaks you.

[Mitch]

I have one, there is an arrow pointing to which edge.. my experience is that it gets you close, but I have found its usually not on the money unless you get lucky. (usually a few degrees one way or the other)
there is always the argument that one can compensate by moving the advance lever on the column. well yea and nea. I like to know that when I am starting the car with the lever all the way up (retarded) that its at spec.

[A29tudor]

Hope the dist body is snug on base or, as I found out, YOU CAN CHASE a few degrees all over the place.

[tbirdtbird]

wouldn't the cam screw have to be pretty snug to keep the backlash to zero while you tighten the screw? Seems the cam would have to be quite snug when you are rotating the tool 2 turns. And why 2 turns? One should be enough....??

[Jim Baskin III]

Dave,yes you need to keep the cam screw just loose enough to turn the cam but tight enough to keep the backlash removed.And yes I have found 1 turn is quite sufficient to take the backlash out.

Once I have done this I use a timing light to make ,if any corrections.I have electronic ignition so the points check is mute for me.Personally I have found it to be on spot most of the time,but most of the time is not good enough for me , hence the timing light.

[Mitch]

yea its a fine line on how tight the cam screw is when rotating.. another thing I forgot to mention is the tool fits on the cam with a loose fit which is another variable on getting it right. the tool is a cheap piece of tin.
the instructions (bible) say 2 turns not sure why.
one other thing when turning it the 2 turns sometimes the cam screw tightens up by itself which also screws u up

its good for the tool bag for the guy that needs to get going quick on the side of the road... once home I would double check it properly

[Mitch]

Hey Dave are you going to buy one? cheap 10.00

[Dennis]

Like everyone else said, gets you to a starting point. I always have my test light and a jumper in my tool box to get my timing exactly where I want it.

[BNCHIEF]

I have one and as said it is ballpark I have electronic ignition and I use a test light as well as a timing light.

[WMWS]

I timed my car with a test light and check it with a timing light. But I have it timed so at full advance it is at 30 degrees BTDC. And at full retard it is at 10 ATDC. That way when I get going I just pull the lever all the way down and don't have to worry about having it too far advanced. If I'm lugging up a hill I still retard it slightly.

[DustDevil]

Isn't it true that, once you set your timing, it is set for good. All you need to do is bring your point gap back to .018 or .020 and just leave the timing alone?

[tbirdtbird]

this is very true

[Mike V. Florida]

As with any timing method, they are only as good as the starting point, #1 at TDC. If that is off then everything will be off.

[Greynomad]

As with any timing method, they are only as good as the starting point, #1 at TDC. If that is off then everything will be off.

Some "experts" say to set the motor at TDC with the timing lever 2 or 3 notches down and set the timing there. I like that method as it ensures no kickbacks, even if hand cranking. That confirms as far as I'm concerned that the starting point is fuzzy and doesn't matter all that much so long as it is within reason. There is plenty of adjustment available with the lever to make up for an small error at TDC. It comes down tot he skill (and ear) of the driver. All IMHO.

[DustDevil]

inre to my comment on setting the timing and forgetting about it, then just bring the points back to .018. THAT IS THE CORRECT TIMING; all well and good. but GET IT RIGHT FROM THE START... NOT WITH THE NUREX TOOL, BUT WITH THE TRIED AND TRUE METHOD OF LES ANDREW'S RED BOOK and the light coming on at one or two clicks on the advance. After that, just bring the points back to where you started. .018 is true, but .020 allows for some drift in the point gap. I checked mine recently and they had fallen to .015. I just brought the gap back to about .019 and went from there. I had more power.

[BNCHIEF]

I have one it is a good starting point timing light etc to get it exact.

[tbirdtbird]

Isn't it true that, once you set your timing, it is set for good. All you need to do is bring your point gap back to .018 or .020 and just leave the timing alone?

True.

[Captndan]

Like everyone else said, gets you to a starting point. I always have my test light and a jumper in my tool box to get my timing exactly where I want it.

A test light and jumper can do many things. A Nu-Rex can only do one thing.

[CarlG]

Several years ago, while on tour, one of the cars broke down out in the middle of no place. Trouble was tracked down to the distributor. After fiddling with it for quite a while, someone came up with a good spare, so we changed it out. The owner of the car then proceeded to attempt to time it without any success at all. After another half hour of fiddling around, I asked if anyone had one of the NuRex tools. Once one was produced, engine was timed and on it's way in 5 minutes.

[DaWizard]

Well, I not only have and use the Nu-Rex timing tool, I also have the Nu-Rex centrifugal advance. Having used the Old School timing light way since I was a wee lad, I find the tool refreshing and an easy way to set the timing. The need for the two rotations is explained in the video by Bob that it is to insure ALL the backlash is taken up. If you don't rotate it two turns I guess it might work, but who's to say? I set my timing with the upper plate about 1/8 in from the side of the distributor opening and after I am all done I just move the upper plate back against the distributor body which backs it off a couple degrees. In the last few days I found myself lacking enough battery to start the car with the starter(yes, I am looking into that little problem) and needed to use the crank, and with all the alterations it starts with ¼ pull on the crank.

So, I like it.

PS. The spark arm from steering column to distributor is removed. No need to "fiddle" with timing going up or down hill.

[Jim Baskin III]

Wizard,glad to here someone else is running a centrifugal advance,I have loved it for 10yrs now.

[DaWizard]

Thanks Jim, but alas, since I am building a 6.1 HC engine I will not be using the NuRex centrifugal advance in this engine because the folks at NuRex can't dial back the +40º advance and I can only tolerate +20º advance. So, I will leave the advance in the 4.6:1 engine and keep that around for a spare.

[Beauford]

I have it....I have used both methods and don't see a difference...it is easy!

[BNCHIEF]

Were you drinking at the time that can affect your results

[Mitch]

Several years ago, while on tour, one of the cars broke down out in the middle of no place. Trouble was tracked down to the distributor. After fiddling with it for quite a while, someone came up with a good spare, so we changed it out. The owner of the car then proceeded to attempt to time it without any success at all. After another half hour of fiddling around, I asked if anyone had one of the NuRex tools. Once one was produced, engine was timed and on it's way in 5 minutes.

I carry an extra dist but it's already timed... just drop it in and go, no futzin around
it might not be spot on due to variations ( back lash etc) with the car receiving the transplant but it will get you going faster

[CarlG]

I think they guys in our club that now carry spare distributors learned from this episode and have now timed their spare distributors. The NuRex wrench is still in our carry-on tool kits though -- just in case!

[DaWizard]

i carry an extra dist but i have it timed already... just drop it in and go, no futzin around
it might not be spot on due to variations ( back lash etc) with the car receiving the transplant but it will get you going faster

Ditto

[Captndan]

Now if I can find the Nu-Rex I will put it in the onboard tool box. But wait! I have two cars.

[Beauford]

Its just a regular wrench with a sticker with directions. Turn 2 complete turns and land on body of number 4 post.

[Mule Driver]

I have one and use it. Seems to work out alright. Gets you off the side of the road quicker.

[DaWizard]

Hey Mule Driver, WELCOME to the VFF!!

[JDupuis]

Welcome to the VFF!

[Mule Driver]

Thanks for the welcome.

[Mitch]

I have one and use it. Seems to work out alright. Gets you off the side of the road quicker.

Welcome Mule Driver to the VFF!!

[BAAP]

Its just a regular wrench with a sticker with directions. Turn 2 complete turns and land on body of number 4 post.

Actually it looks the same but if you look closer the tab that sticks out on the inside of the wrench is at a different location.
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[1930 Closed Cab PU]

The Nurex works great for timing in my experience. If you have more than one A, inexpensive enough to have one in every vehicle. The second wrench does not take the place of a timing light, light bulb, or the meter methods.

[1931 Flamingo]

I use it, takes the backlash out. KISS
Paul in CT