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  • Exhaust

    Well, went for a nice drive yesterday, but my passenger complained of the heat on her feet. I already have a thick mat and a reflective insulating pad, but she said it was warm still. I have read that a lot of people have good luck with the aries muffler, for many reasons, but they do reduce the heat on the floor. The existing muffler is just some glass pack thing he had lying around anyway. I've heard the stainless can be brittle, would you guys recommend the painted or SS one?

    I also noticed a slight exhaust odor so I think there's a leak either on the block or at the manifold/muffler connection. IIRC we used a copper gasket between the two. I'm tempted to replace the rusty manifold anyway, does anyone make one that is above the rest?

  • #2
    The exhaust manifolds are all pretty equal except Snyder's sells a porcelain coated one that stays pretty. If your intake manifold was ever resurfaced I would replace that along with the exhaust manifold. They do not need to be surfaced when installing the brand new combo. The little dog-nuts that they sell for sealing the pipe to the manifold is worthless. ( I once threw one as far as I could) Ford never used one at that location. Some use the little insert pipe and others just go naked with a bit of cement. ( I use the insert) Get a new powder coated exhaust clamp as well and be aware there is a top and a bottom to those.
    I'm sure others will give there opinions and offer advice for the heat. I'm all stock and the heat is not an issue
    4~ Tudor's
    1~ Coupe

    Henry Ford said,
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

    Comment


    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      Oh and beware of the Les Andrews red book on torquing the manifold to 500 ft lbs.. Read our Les thread of corrections in the tech area

    • jordanka16
      jordanka16 commented
      Editing a comment
      I have noted the corrections in my book, thanks for pointing that out. Although your post says the rear end capacity is 1.5 quarts but I think it is 1.5 pints? I know mine will overflow at less than a quart.

    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      Where did you see 1.5 quarts? We did make all those corrections
      See the top and bottom of this thread
      https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...-w-corrections

    • jordanka16
      jordanka16 commented
      Editing a comment
      I have not seen that page, I got my corrections from here https://www.vintagefordforum.com/for...-andrews-books

    • Mitch
      Mitch commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Fixed

  • #3
    I have used both the mild steel and stainless steel Aries mufflers. In my opinion, the mild steel one sounds better. The stainless one has a ring to it. Perhaps it is harder material.
    Bill
    http://www.brauchauto.com/
    Eastern Connecticut

    Comment


    • #4
      I've used the Aries stainless for over 10 years and had no problems. I'd like to compare it to the steel one for sound.

      Comment


      • #5
        Make sure timing is dead on. And that you aren't running lean.
        http://jmodela.coffeecup.com

        Comment


        • jordanka16
          jordanka16 commented
          Editing a comment
          I did make sure the timing was good, I'm running a b carb and I have the gav about 1/8 turn open, I have read you can run them closed but dont just to be safe.

      • #6
        Safe...........from what??
        Paul in CT

        Comment


        • #7
          prolly safe from too lean......to avoid burning the valves

          After you have what you think is the sweet spot for the GAV under normal road conditions, maybe for 50 miles, pull the plugs and check the color.
          If the porcelain is white you are too lean.
          If tan, you are just right.
          The perimeter of the plug will be black, ignore that, it is the porcelain that tells the story

          How open you run the GAV under normal road conditions varies quite a bit from car to car, any mention of 1/4 or anything else is just a starting point for you
          Last edited by tbirdtbird; 08-14-2018, 06:07 PM.

          Comment


          • canadian
            canadian commented
            Editing a comment
            Tbird I need your help. Spark Plug. you said in above post ... porcelain tan colour .. ignore black perimeter... is this a characteristic of a flathead engine, my 4 plugs are tan at centre but perimeter is black /wet/ soot/ and combination of all. I have been looking at this as a problem .

          • tbirdtbird
            tbirdtbird commented
            Editing a comment
            Tan porcelain center is the test of your fuel ratio.
            You can't do much about the rest of the plug.
            Lots of things enter into the equation for the rest:
            1. are rings tired ?
            2. is engine compression low? A stock 4.2 head is quite low, so fuel burning is rather incomplete, it is what it is
            3. ? timing dead on?
            4. Stale gas?
            5. Years of carbon buildup?
            6. can u put some pix up (start a new thread)
            7. in addition to above, I would clean the carbon out in the following way (I have done this to many engines per the recommendation of my racing engine builder buddy)
            Start motor, let engine warm up to normal operating temp, use lever to put at high idle, get small plant mister, fill with water, make sure car is outdoors and no one standing behind the exhaust, slowly very slowly mist some water into the carb opening. You will hear engine bog down but the high idle should prevent it from stalling. You are only doing a little bit at a time, wait a bit for recovery of rpm, then spray again, you are steam cleaning your combustion chamber. All manner of black crap usually shoots out of exhaust.
            Maybe even put an extender pipe or hose on the exhaust pipe since the pipe does not go all the way to the rear bumper of the car. Would love to see pix, tho

            I will take a pic of one of my plugs and post, but remember I am running a 5.5 head. Even what we term high-compression heads (5.5 and 6.1) are not really very high compression, since everyone else was running 6.5 and 7.0
            Last edited by tbirdtbird; 09-13-2018, 08:33 AM.

          • canadian
            canadian commented
            Editing a comment
            Tbird , I will start a new thread in the next day or so. I was a mechanic for provincial police force, during the 1980's before spray intake/carb cleaners were on the market , that was a ritual pouring water threw carb to the point of stalling and steam cleaning a engine... good point

        • #8
          Yeah I figured a tad too rich is better than a tad too lean, I'll pull a plug next time I do a good run.

          Comment


          • #9
            So, getting ready to put my order in with snyders, already have the new muffler on the way. Just a couple things, with the new muffler and manifold and the permatex sealant would the little sleeve that goes in the muffler provide any benefit, or just get in the way? Also, yay or nay on gland rings, I've never used them before.

            Comment


            • Tom Wesenberg
              Tom Wesenberg commented
              Editing a comment
              I use gland rings, but not the sleeve.

            • EarlyBert
              EarlyBert commented
              Editing a comment
              I used gland rings & the gaskets wouldn't seal so had to take them out. Mine runs fine without gland rings & I got a good seal.

            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              I use the gland rings when possible and the sleeve with no cement

          • #10
            Alright I haven't decided if I'm going to use them or not but they were cheap so I ordered them and I figure I will decide in the moment, lol.

            I also ordered some new LED rear lights from Mike's to improve my wintertime night visibility, lots to do!

            Comment


            • #11
              I had the steel Aries and it rusted out after ten or twelve years. I replaced it with the SS one. I scuffed and painted it. Don’t know about sound, as I’m usually in the drivers seat.

              Comment


              • jordanka16
                jordanka16 commented
                Editing a comment
                I went with the painted steel because it was $100 less. If it lasts me 10 or 12 years I'll be fine with that, I can upgrade to a SS at that point.

                I'm not too concerned with the sound difference between the two, either will sound more like a model A than the cherry bomb on it now I bet!

            • #12
              We have new manifolds combo (needed no surfacing), Aries steel muffler and gland rings, with the metal faced gasket.We had to file the new gland rings to allow gasket seating. ( Spend some time with the gland rings because we found one rattling around in the old muffler!).) Also, used muffler cement at the muffler connection. On note was that the muffler neck- up needed a slight bend for alignment. Also, we fabricated a semi-flexible rear muffler support (search other threads) to stop rear clamp rattle.
              Last edited by plyfor; 09-16-2018, 10:29 AM.

              Comment


              • #13
                If you do much driving, the gland rings will eventually warp and fall into the muffler.

                Comment


                • tbirdtbird
                  tbirdtbird commented
                  Editing a comment
                  That has been our experience also, that is why we don't use them and don't seem to need them to get a good seal.
                  We like the two piece copper gasket with the slits, you just drop it over the manifold studs when the manifold is almost on. Also, easily replaceable w/o removing the manifold. If the surfaces are true, never had a problem
                  Last edited by tbirdtbird; 09-17-2018, 09:01 AM.

              • #14
                If you go for an Aries muffler go right to the source and ask about scratch and dent mufflers. I bought one and still cannot determine what was scratched or dented. Got it for a good price too.

                Comment


                • jordanka16
                  jordanka16 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I already ordered one, but I did get it right from the source, they are only a few hours south of me so the shipping direct from them was cheaper than anyone else.

              • #15
                Are you running engine side pans? I "think" they help to keep the exhaust a bit COOLER.
                Dad AKA Bill Williamson

                Comment


                • jordanka16
                  jordanka16 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I am not sure, I suppose that means I am probably not. Does anyone have a picture of them installed so I can compare?

                • Mitch
                  Mitch commented
                  Editing a comment
                  You can't miss them. They go from the frame rail to the oil pan on both sides.
                  http://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A6775P.html

                • jordanka16
                  jordanka16 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Well I definitely dont have those, but that is something I will have to look into for sure. Are they the kind of thing that's best to install when the car is apart or do they just bolt right on? And are they an original thing? Or do you have to drill holes to attach them?

                • Mitch
                  Mitch commented
                  Editing a comment
                  The pans bolt right in. Two tabs go to the existing oil pan bolts, and then there should be 3 holes in the frame for the other side. I buy the bolt kit with the proper looking square nuts for the frame side. Others have tapped the frame holes for an easier install but the original way is easy for me. The powder coated pans are much nicer and ready to go. They also sell them with bare metal so watch out

                • jordanka16
                  jordanka16 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Cool, I'm waiting on a tail light to come back in stock before my Mike's order ships, so I will call them and add some pans to the order as well, thanks Mitch. And thank you as well Bill.

              • #16
                Anyone use the heat deflectors like the one that Mike's and many other vendors offer?

                http://www.mikes-afordable.com/mm5/m...vc?Screen=SRCH

                Comment


                • tbirdtbird
                  tbirdtbird commented
                  Editing a comment
                  For some reason on my computer that link is incomplete. I think I know the deflector you mean, tho. The one to shield the muffler heat from the floor.

                  I tried one from a well known vendor, but it must have been a knock-off of the original design, and was very tinny and vibrated and rattled like hell no matter what I did so I threw it away.
                  Maybe someone can post about a better experience, and give a good source.

                • jordanka16
                  jordanka16 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Thst is what I have read as well, that they shake loose and rattle eventually. My plan in addition to the new muffler is to put that aluminum tape on the bottom of the floor boards, all that with the side pans should make a big difference!

                • Mickey
                  Mickey commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I had the same experience as tbird. Rattled terrible and caused a totally awful sound. Ended up throwing away.

              • #17
                Well I got everything installed today, muffler, intake and exhaust manifold. Sounds better and looks better. No more exhaust smell, does smell like burning paint something fierce, lol. Also put antifreeze in so we're all ready for winter.

                You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                This gallery has 2 photos.

                Comment


                • Mitch
                  Mitch commented
                  Editing a comment
                  It does look good, and no more Carbon Monoxide poisoning

                • jordanka16
                  jordanka16 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Indeed, I remember in the past fighting with the copper gaskets when we installed the exhaust, but when I removed it there was nothing ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

                  Also, one of the manifold gaskets was starting to fail.

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