After a engine is rebuilt how long does it take to break it in 100 miles or more vary the rpm up and down drive slower do not over rev the engine, drain oil and refill after 100 miles. Anything to add to this and also do you use an air filter? Thought this might be a good question to ask. Marvel mystery oil in the gas for upper cylinder lubrication. Also non ethanol premium gasoline.
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From AER'S site
4. Do not idle engine to break in. This can cause loss of lubrication to cylinder walls and damage to engine.
Personally i would dump the oil twice in 100 miles3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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Miles was taught in resto college to run the engine in at 1/2 your max RPM for 30 min, all the while monitoring temps etc with IR gun etc. Stop at 15 min for a re-torque, then again at 30 min. You'll be surprised at how much you can take up. So, for an A, we set the throttle to 1200. This will give a basic seat to the cam/lifters. Rings will take 1K or more. Iron rings are suggested, not chrome or exotic coatings. He was taught to not baby the motor, get in it and drive it. The RPM will vary enough at stop signs, lights, etc. Accelerate through the gears, do not baby it, you want the dynamic compression of the higher rpms to force the rings against the walls to get a good, more rapid break-in. A slow baby-like approach will cause the rings and walls to glaze over and getting a good seat will be hard. You want a lot of wear in the beginning to avoid a lot of wear later on. Once the cross hatching is gone from the walls getting the rings to seat will be tough, so make it count. It is suggested to avoid synthetic oil for break-in, regarding the older alloys we are dealing with in a vintage vehicle, it is so slippery it can impair break-in. He uses straight 30 wt mineral oil, then you can switch to synthetic after 1K if so desired. We are with Mitch as far as 2 oil changes in 100. We actually dump the oil after that first 30 min run-in.
Agree with use of MMO. Since crap-a-hol arrived, we use it in all the vintage cars here for valve lube especially. 4oz per 10 gals. We stay away from max rpm until the first 1K, but are not afraid to run up to 1800-2000 rpm.Last edited by tbirdtbird; 07-26-2017, 12:18 PM.
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I agree about not babying an engine during the break-in period. When we had our IH H tractor rebuilt many years ago the mechanic who did the rebuild recomended that we put a 2 bottom plow and plow with it for 4 hours for initial break-in, then change oil and retorque head. We followed his recomendation and it was a great tractor for a long time. It would pull the stack mover with two stacks of hay over a long steep hill in 3rd gear with moderate effort. Even our IH M would not make the hill in 3rd, had to have it in 2nd to make the same pull. Rod"Much of the social history of the Western world, over the past three decades, has been a history of replacing what worked with what sounded good." Thomas Sowell
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If not already changed, I would be comfortable with draining out that 10-30, and going to the Rotella. They have decreased the zinc in Rotella, BTW. The manufacturers have to guarantee the cat to 120K, and they would rather deliver on that than on good lube qualities. Nothing wrong with adding some ZDDP if you like. I have an engine builders bible that suggests not just cam/tappets benefit from zinc, but all bearing and friction surfaces, contrary to popular belief. A. Graham Bell has written extensively on engine building, tuning, and oil. Yes we know there was no zinc in 1930. But why shun modern chemistry?
There are those that say any oil will do. I would love to see a scientific or professional reference to that. Maybe, maybe not. At the very least consider detergent oil. The more engines you work on, the more you will believe that. I am of the opinion that those that propose non-D have not taken apart very many engines....Maybe any oil will work, but since you just dropped 3500 for an overhaul, why not use the best you can?
Having said that once we get to 1K miles, we switch to a multiweight Mobil oil, and no longer consider zinc. For that first 1K, we use Valvoline Racing straight 30, which has about the highest zinc available.
As always your mileage may vary!Last edited by tbirdtbird; 07-26-2017, 03:19 PM.
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Tbird i am running an oil filter and changing oil more frequently than would be normal in a modern car I do like synthetics when engine is broken in but not sure about a model a. I know many say you do not need an air filter but I always say really than look at the air filter in your modern car. Renners did my carb and pressure balanced it.
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I concur with everything said here I am running the rotella was only going to add the zddp after first oil change, was always taught to vary the rpm not wide open 1200 is a good rule of thumb let engine pull a little do not lug it. Good points on retorqueing, car has a new radiator and leakless water pump and no temp issues at all. I also pulls well and runs smoothly with no vibration not to me anyway but if you do not over rev it.
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thanks for the comments; had a little sludge in the pan bottom probably due to new babbitt which I assume is normal. The oil pump screen was cleanBTW, the Porsche Club of America did a research (published) study on zinc attributes with horiz opposed cyl. motors broken down and parts compared. Should be able to find it on-line.
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Related Topics
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by old31What do you recommend for a break in procedure on a newly built babbited engine with a 6.0 head, larger intakes and B grind cam.
Keep it under 40 for the first 500 miles, or just go out and do highway driving?
How many miles to do the first and second oil changes.-
Channel: Model A Forum
04-05-2018, 07:14 PM -
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by old31Original Thread
What do you recommend for a break in procedure on a newly built babbited engine with a 6.0 head, larger intakes and B grind cam.
Keep it under 40 for the first 500 miles, or just go out and do highway driving?
How many miles to do the first and second oil changes.-
Channel: Cooling ~ Engine
04-05-2018, 07:14 PM -
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by Mike85212I got my car back from the engine rebuilder yesterday afternoon !!
He put a 5.5 head on it along with the B cam, aluminum timing gear and a full flow oil filter, and new valves. The crankshaft was already precision balanced. So far I do not notice much if any difference in the higher compression head and the cam but I am not running it hard because I am still breaking it in.
I did go to...-
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02-07-2019, 10:53 PM -
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by BNCHIEFThis is not to say anything bad about any oil or brand just some info to consider.http://www.restore-an-old-car.com/be...ssic-cars.html They are taking all the zddp out of the oil we run. Right now I have delo 400LE, being discontinued, I also have shell rotella T-4 both are 15/40 these still have the zddp in the higher concentration. You can also buy zddp https://www.thoughtco.com/debunking-...-...
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Channel: Cooling ~ Engine
09-07-2017, 07:41 AM -
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by BNCHIEFThis is not to say anything bad about any oil or brand just some info to consider.http://www.restore-an-old-car.com/be...ssic-cars.html They are taking all the zddp out of the oil we run. Right now I have delo 400LE, being discontinued, I also have shell rotella T-4 both are 15/40 these still have the zddp in the higher concentration. You can also buy zddp https://www.thoughtco.com/...
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Channel: Model A Forum
09-07-2017, 07:41 AM -
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by merjohnI know this is like asking what oil is best but what brand do you guys, that do this for a living, use?
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Channel: Model A Forum
09-30-2018, 05:16 PM -
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Wife and I want to drive the sport coup to Brent's work shop from the coast of N.C. but I still have some blow by indicating the rings are not seated yet. Only have 300 miles since AER rebuilt a long block for me. I have changed oil & filter twice so far. I would like to average 50 mph on the trip out, about 400 miles. What do you think?
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Channel: Model A Forum
04-15-2018, 02:44 PM -
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by MitchI'll start by saying do not attempt to run the motor on the fuel supply from the tank. Pumping debris or old crap gas into the carburetor is never a good thing. This can cause your valves and rings to stick. It will also mess up a good working carburetor.
Hang an auxiliary fuel supply with fresh gas gravity fed directly to the carburetor....-
Channel: Miscellaneous Info
04-10-2018, 09:37 AM -
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by Jerry KzooWith the stay at home order here in Michigan I decided to look into a knock I would get at start up after a long period of not running the engine. I figured that over time the oil would drain down from the valve chamber and then make some noise until the oil pumped back into the chamber and filled it up. It did not take long for the knock to go away and then the car ran fine. I put a little over...
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Channel: Model A Forum
04-02-2020, 11:49 AM -
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by JKYWe are having a spare engine built out to put into storage. We'll cap all the intake and exhaust ports with some shop rags. I have a bad distributor we can use to plug the hole in the head. We'll paint in once we get it back.
My questions are:
1) Do we put engine oil in it, add a bit to each cylinder and hand crank it before putting it away?
2) Anything else we need to do...-
Channel: Model A Forum
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