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  • Engine pans paint

    We've tried lacquer on the upper, top side of the engine pans for gas resistance. Not too effective with the ethanol laden gas.
    Has anyone tried epoxy or urethane clear ? Can't seem to find fuel dope in a spray can.

  • #2
    Powder coating holds up well to fuel, thats probably why the suppliers offer them that way
    3 ~ Tudor's
    Henry Ford said
    "It's all nuts and bolts"


    Mitch's Auto Service ctr

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    • #3
      I bought mine already powder coated.
      Alaskan A's
      Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska
      Model A Ford Club of America
      Model A Restorers Club
      Antique Automobile Club of America
      Mullins Owners Club

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      • #4
        I "stole" Minervas' powder coated pans, before I sold her. Eight years under the bench & they're still BEAUTIFUL! They'll look SPIFFY, on Vermin!
        A friend refused to put pans on his '29, he was AFRAID they'd collect gas from the carb & be a FIRE HAZARD!---LOL
        Bill Thief

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        • #5
          Sprayed the oil pan and side pans with black engine enamel; will see how they hold up. No powder coater nearby. Also, can touch them up if scratched.

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          • #6
            On carburetors I use Top Flight Monocoat gas model airplane paint. This paint is made to stand up to the gas model engine fuel, which is some nasty stuff it will melt many plastics. So far has held up well after 5 years on my A carb. I would think it will hold up well on engine pans also.

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            • #7
              Thanks; no one seems to have the Monocoat black at this time-- other colors, yes. Sources?
              Some say that the 2K urethane clear in a spray can (accelerator button on can bottom) is gas resistant.

              Comment


              • tbirdtbird
                tbirdtbird commented
                Editing a comment
                Aircraft Spruce has several specialty coatings including an asphalt coating. While you may not want that, it was the basis for Japan black years ago. However I did find this product, perhaps a call to the company could determine the resistance to gasahol:
                http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...p?recfer=26684

            • #8
              According to a motorcycle website, Eastwood has an epoxy clearcoat that holds up well against fuel. Also there is a Rustolium rattle can clearcoat made to be fuel resistant. Says to allow to dry for 7 days. Report on it sounds favorable. Rod
              Much of the social history of the Western world, over the past three decades, has been a history of replacing what worked with what sounded good.

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              • #9
                Ever notice how much better an engine room looks, WITH side pans? They're the FINISHING touch & VERY functional, dealing with the air flow!
                They cause MORE air to flow out the hood louvers & keep the manifold COOLER!
                Bill W.

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                • Mitch
                  Mitch commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Do they help make a ground?
                  SA. K-soonout

                • CarlG
                  CarlG commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I would not even think about depending on the engine pans to ground the engine.

              • #10
                Powder coating has worked well for me

                Comment


                • #11
                  Model As have GROUNDS EVERYWHERE, like, "The butt bone is connected to the foot bone, etc."
                  Dad Anatomist???

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    I don't currently have engine pans. How much difference do they make on temperature?

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      Consider this model a's did not have air filters and were driven on dirt roads, this would have helped keep road dust from coming up into the engine compartment unless you were following someone also it is said to increase the air flow and it would help deflect the air out the side louvers and reate a bit of a vortex or draw which might help with the carb not sucking in as many contaminants.. These are just my thoughts no facts no data The real guru's here probably have much better ideas. Just my 2 cents worth.

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                      • #14
                        I never saw any data showing a measurable difference in the engine or trans temps. My feelings are that it does help funnel the air out the hood louvers as well as down the sides of the engine block and trans case. I can see how it would also help in cleaner air to the carb as Chief mentioned without a filter plus they complete the engine bays overall appearance. It can add another ground to the motor if a couple spots were cleaned bare between the pans, frame and the motor.
                        Maybe Mike K would have some interesting info on this subject i am all ears....
                        3 ~ Tudor's
                        Henry Ford said
                        "It's all nuts and bolts"


                        Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                        Comment


                        • BNCHIEF
                          BNCHIEF commented
                          Editing a comment
                          x2

                        • Mitch
                          Mitch commented
                          Editing a comment
                          They do keep the engine bay cleaner from dust and dirt. Maybe that is their main purpose

                        • BNCHIEF
                          BNCHIEF commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Those are my thoughts wonder what Henrys were.

                      • #15
                        ENGINE PANS: I guess this comes down to the question of whether or not Edsel and the engineering crew at Dearborn ever ran a Model A through a wind tunnel. Ford owned one at the time, and a big one! The Dearborn engineering building (a beautiful Albert Kahn architectural design) where the A was designed, on Oakwood Blvd., is just ½ mile away from the airfield and where the Tri-Motors were built. That building and airfield is now the experimental vehicles and proving ground. There is still a wind tunnel there, modern in every aspect.

                        The Model A presents a big flat forward face that creates considerable turbulence vorticies, even at low speeds. The airflow under almost any car is far from laminar and will kick up dust and grit. Modern cars use plastic air dams directly under the front end to slightly lower the air pressure under the vehicle. This keeps air flowing through the radiator and across the entire length of the engine. In most pre-WWII cars engine pans were used to keep turbulence vorticies from feeding road dirt and grit up and into the engine compartment. Most era vehicles were updraft induction. Without the pans those carbs would eat a lot of dirt.

                        As it all relates to cooling, without a dedicated combined wind tunnel and thermal analysis, anything anyone says or claims goes into that nebulous ‘testimonial’ category. Sometimes what seems logical is proven otherwise in a wind tunnel. Just ask Orville and Wilbur. They had a miniature one with a hand crank.

                        ELECTRICAL: What is the primary engine to frame ground path?
                        On a stock Model A it is a combination of the following:

                        Front engine mount
                        - Floats on a spring, always loose, not a solid electrical connection. If freshly painted a very poor high current path.

                        Rear engine mounts - Bolts through rubber with spacers, not a solid electrical connection. If freshly painted a poor high current path.

                        Fuel line - (gasp!) - Electrical conn to tank/cowl/body that sits on blocks/pads with bolts that connect to frame. If frame is freshly painted a poor high current path. I've seen fuel lines get real hot from cranking if other paths on this list are missing.

                        Vacuum line - Electrical conn to firewall. Same problem as fuel line.

                        Drive train - Thru grease/oil and across machined surfaces, then thru rear spring, not a solid electrical connection.

                        Engine pans - Electrical connection to engine and frame. If freshly painted a poor high current path.

                        Metal popout switch cable (Yikes!) I've seen one get RED HOT during cranking when some items on this list were not in place!!

                        Brake rods - A loose assembly from pedal shaft to axles to springs to frame.

                        Throttle and spark advance linkage - Not a solid electrical connection. Across loose lubricated moveable points.

                        When new and with all pieces in place it worked fine. The original paint and finishes were thin, not overly plastic in nature, and easily bitten through to bare metal when assembling. If you drive regularly then vibration and flexing keep all those ‘kinda’ connections clean enough to add up to a sufficient ground for good starter motor performance.

                        It's not just 88 years of rust and dirt that can cause problems. "Restoring" with modern finishes leaves you with surfaces that do not easily cut through with fasteners for electrical conductivity. Leaving off things like engine pans doesn't help, either.

                        If your total resistance, engine to battery ground post, causes a minor 1/2 volt drop with a 12 amp load you will notice nothing. Engage a starter that wants 125 amps and your voltage drops several volts. Since cranking power (watts) = V x A, the starter will not do much.

                        So, if your car is over-restored (gasp, a dirty word in fine point circles) you may well benefit from an added heavy ground!
                        On a non-fine point car, a ground lead from a tranny bolt to the same frame bolt the battery ground strap attaches to may prove beneficial.
                        Last edited by MikeK; 09-11-2017, 11:13 PM. Reason: Always tweaking. Added spark advance, corrected syntax.

                        Comment


                        • #16
                          So, if your car is over-restored (gasp, a dirty word in fine point circles) you may well benefit from an added heavy ground!
                          On a non-fine point car, a ground lead from a tranny bolt to the same frame bolt the battery ground strap attaches to may prove beneficial.
                          This is what I have done not only to A's, some cars require an additional ground. Easily hid under the car.

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                          • #17
                            Mike your posts are a masterpiece when i t come to common sense thamk you so much I learn a great deal.

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                            • #18
                              Originally posted by BNCHIEF View Post
                              Mike your posts are a masterpiece when i t come to common sense thamk you so much I learn a great deal.
                              Agree they certainly are,
                              i always learn something also when he posts
                              3 ~ Tudor's
                              Henry Ford said
                              "It's all nuts and bolts"


                              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

                              Comment


                              • #19
                                I think this question is linked to another: Does a fan shroud help cooling? Do a shroud and pans work together to give a benefit and does removing one render the other ineffective?

                                Comment


                                • #20
                                  OK OK, as advised on another thread, I decided to sleep on it and after deep consideration I have made the decision to re-install the engine pans........................
                                  "Bullshit and Brilliance Comes with Age and Experience"

                                  Comment


                                  • #21
                                    The original thread was about engine pans paint, under the carb. area, etc. After searching, I bought some Brodak Mfg. 16 oz. jet black butyrate dope and thinner and tested some gas on it. So far, no blistering. The finish is a semigloss (uncoated) and should be ok also on a carb. The underside of the pans can be anyone's choice but the dope can be sprayed on the top surfaces for exposure to fuels and oil.
                                    Also, we like Mike K suggested add a separate ground cable from tranny or ujoint clams to the frame on all our cars.
                                    Last edited by plyfor; 03-27-2019, 04:04 PM.

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