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Horn Adjustment Screw Felt and Wire Terminals Position

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  • Horn Adjustment Screw Felt and Wire Terminals Position

    Here's a picture of the round felt pad that fits around the adjustment screw. These felt pads are often missing. I was at Menards the other day to buy some felt door weather stripping, and it would work great to cut a round horn felt. It's 5/8" wide by 3/16" thick, and 17 feet long, and only costs $2 for the roll. It's a medium grey color but could be dyed black by using a felt tip marker.

    As long as we're talking horns, here is another picture showing the correct way to install the wire terminals under the clips.

  • #2
    This is good info as I recently bought a original and had no idea how to put on wires. I managed to adjust and test horn one night at 2am in the garage off the battery. Turning screw one click at a time. The 3rd click it went off and I about pissed my pants it was so loud!! What is the reason behind the felt?

    Comment


    • #3
      Sorry to say this Tom, but something in my electronics background tell me that bending the wire at a sharp angle like that to plug those wires in is just wrong. However, the bullet plugs will fit right into the hole made by the wrapping of the terminal on the horn, AND lock in with a straight, to the wire, fitting, like this.
      You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

      Comment


      • Mitch
        Mitch commented
        Editing a comment
        Wiz your terminal ends are installed wrong

      • DaWizard
        DaWizard commented
        Editing a comment
        That may be true Mitch, but I'm not going to break the wires off at the edge of the terminal.

    • #4
      I had this picture saved in my computer showing the proper way to install the connectors. I think it might have originally came from Mike K..




      HornConnectors.jpg
      3 ~ Tudor's
      Henry Ford said
      "It's all nuts and bolts"


      Mitch's Auto Service ctr

      Comment


      • #5
        HEY, HEY, HEY......I NEVER said I was correct.....

        I only said that my "common sense" dictates that you would try to keep the wires flowing in a relaxed position and keep from breaking the wires off from vibration. Just look at how strained those "correctly installed" wires are, THEN picture bringing the flex cover up to be held by the horn cover and you'll see what I am talking about, strain.
        You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

        Comment


        • Mitch
          Mitch commented
          Editing a comment
          Wiz that's cool, and i hear what your saying but i like to also have posted the subscribed way.

        • Mitch
          Mitch commented
          Editing a comment
          Wiz
          what about giving your wires more slack then it wont pull, even with the cover on

        • DaWizard
          DaWizard commented
          Editing a comment
          Well Mitch, if you place the wires as directed you will HAVE to add more slack to keep from breaking the wires from the fatigue of the bounce and vibration of the car.

          OH WAIT, the car doesn't vibrate, only the road makes it seem that way

      • #6
        Alright now...dont be confusing the easily confused....but I got a while before this so I will wait....this looks like a 5 page discussion in the works. LOL

        Comment


        • DaWizard
          DaWizard commented
          Editing a comment
          Oh Beauford, don't fret, assemble the wires on your horn as you see fit, I don't believe the judges are allowed to use a screwdriver on the horn to see which way your wires are installed.

      • #7
        We I first looked at the inside I didnt even see where to connect wires. I just touched terminals...

        Comment


        • #8
          I should have also posted a picture of the horn cover screw, because the correct screw only has enough threads to hold the cover in place.
          Repro screws have threads the whole length, and I've seen a couple times where someone ran the screw down into the brush holder.

          Comment


          • #9
            Hey Tom, I just happen to have a picture of that screw laying around in my Model A folder. Here ya go. 20170725_144220_resized.jpg
            You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!

            Comment


            • #10
              Thanks for the excellent picture of the screw. That shouldn't be too hard to make correctly.

              Comment


              • #11
                I didn't know any better when I hooked my wires up to the horn so I soldered them to the clips. I soldered bullets to the other ends of the wires so I could remove them from from my voltage reducer easily. This was shortly after I got my A running. One night I made a trip to my local HD and when I came back outside I noticed my horn was hanging from the wires below because the screws from the bracket to the horn came loose and fell off. Those soldered wires saved my horn from falling off getting lost. I had zip ties in a couple places on my wires probably saved loosing it. I used loctite on the screws when I put it back together on the bracket ... and I left the wires soldered. And I know it's not correct, but I have my horn yet.

                Comment


                • #12
                  Originally posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
                  Thanks for the excellent picture of the screw. That shouldn't be too hard to make correctly.
                  Worst case take the reproduction screw and fill in the excess threads with JB weld.

                  Comment

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