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Transmission rebuild

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  • Transmission rebuild

    I'm doing a rebuild on a stock transmission and have the parts I felt needed replaced. So I have some questions regarding the bearings. Both of the new ball bearings have seals on both sides, basically complete sealed bearings. I can see the input shaft being ok with the seal on the front, but what about the rear? If the rear has seals, then how does oil get back there as it used to for the u-joint cavity? So the transmission oil would fill the u-joint cavity and the driveshaft seal would keep the transmission and differential oil from mixing.

    Transmission is a 1930 so it has the better u-joint, reverse idler, countershaft, etc.

  • #2
    ?? what about the grease fitting on the clamshell for the u-joint?


    • #3
      Which would be better for the spicer type u-joint, grease or oil? So are you saying pump oil in from the grease fitting? Is there one on top, I can't remember. I know there is on the bottom, original that will let oil leak out. ???


      • #4
        Oh my. No No, the U-joint runs in a bath of GREASE, not oil. Say you put the required pint or so of 600w in the dry trans, now open that rear bearing so the oil can lube the u-joint?

        There IS suppose to be a grease fitting on the lower outer clam shell, AND a hole in the inner clam shell to correspond to it so you can shoot the grease into the u-joint directly. Be sure on reassembly that you get these holes aligned, and after assembly, pump as much grease into that fitting as you can!!

        I don't care which u-joint you use, and there are several, and they all need grease. You can't put too much grease in there, any left over will move rearward and lube the spline and speedo gear.
        You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!


        • #5
          Use your sealed bearings and pump the u-joint cavity with grease. Remove the speedo turtle so when the grease starts to come out ya full. This is why i love my lincoln air grease gun as the cavity empty will hold a full 14.5 OZ tube of grease
          3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
          Henry Ford said,
          "It's all nuts and bolts"
          "Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."

          Mitch's Auto Service ctr


          • #6
            Ok. Just wasn't clear on that because both of the ball bearings had no seals, just the slinger. So how does grease get into the u-joint with those caps on it?

            Ok went out and looked again, and I can see how grease can get to it eventually. What's the recommended grease? That red stuff I see Tom, no offense Tom, use quite a bit of? Corn head grease?

            On one of my new bearing seal I popped off one side and there was a paper staple in there. Makes you wonder what they left in on the other side. Plus the slinger I got new won't go over the input shaft so I'm going to have to salvage and be careful not to bend the old one.

            Mark Gears? Seems I read before somewhere they are the better gear?
            Last edited by Dennis; 07-24-2017, 07:11 PM.


            • Mitch
              Mitch commented
              Editing a comment
              Tom uses mystic JT-6 but any good quality high temp wheel bearing grease will work.

            • tbirdtbird
              tbirdtbird commented
              Editing a comment
              Mark gears are the ONLY ones to use. Good ol' USA made. Ask your supplier who makes their gears. I know for a fact that Steve at Bert's and Snyders use Mark

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