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  • preservation

    I have a late Tudor that I would like to knock down the surface rust on. I'm not going to restore it for some time, so I just need to knock the surface rust down, without removing the original finishes (what's left). I then need to prevent the rusts return. this process would be similar to the preservation of a low mileage original. what process is used on the low mileage cars for surface rust removal, and what is used for preservation? I've heard Gibbs oil, anything else?
    http://jmodela.coffeecup.com

  • #2
    Jim I have no first hand knowledge on this. I do know of a guy who took an early fifties Pontiac that had a mix of some paint remaining and some surface rust, and waxed the entire car with car wax. The patina was awesome and the car was protected. In the process a lot of the fine surface rust was removed. Of course if any type of wax or oil is used, later it would have to be totally removed in order to get fresh paint to properly adhere.

    Can you tell us what Gibbs oil is? Dave
    Last edited by tbirdtbird; 03-19-2018, 12:50 AM.

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    • #3
      I was in the same position when I got my Town Sedan, the solution? I sanded it lightly and sprayed it with Rustoleum "Rusty Metal Primer" and Kept it covered with a plastic Tarp for two years. It seemed to stop the progression of the rust. Today, I would wash it with vinegar in addition to the paint.
      Terry

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      • #4
        I'd probably just wipe it all over with an oil soaked rag. I used to buy GIBBS at threshing shows, but haven't found any for the past few years.

        Speaking of threshing shows, the big Le Sueur, MN swap meet is the weekend after Brent's workshop. Usually find some Model A parts there.
        If I make it there, I'll be looking for some GIBBS again. April 27, 28, 29 and set up is late Thursday.

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        • #5
          Doing a search resulted in >>>Gibbs, WD-40, Linseed oil, or a good wax that goes on clear....
          I found this video also

          3 ~ Tudor's
          Henry Ford said
          "It's all nuts and bolts"


          Mitch's Auto Service ctr

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          • #6
            Linseed oil and turpintine half and half. Straight linseed oil is too thick and will build a nasty layer.
            Bill
            http://www.brauchauto.com/
            Eastern Connecticut

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            • #7
              I believe linseed oil on a rag is highly combustible so just use caution if you are taking that route
              3 ~ Tudor's
              Henry Ford said
              "It's all nuts and bolts"


              Mitch's Auto Service ctr

              Comment


              • Mickey
                Mickey commented
                Editing a comment
                Mitch is right. It's not while you're using it it's after you toss it aside or put it in trash (don't do that!). It can generate enough heat will drying (your rags) to spontaneously burst into flames.

              • Mitch
                Mitch commented
                Editing a comment
                Thanks MIckey I should have expanded further on the dangers.

            • #8
              On one of my late model cars the top was rusty. The paint had peeled off and primer didn’t keep the rust from showing. I used some rust restore that converts the rust, maybe some day I will paint the top or just sell the car. The rust converter has kept the rust at bay for over a year, the car is always outside.

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              • #9
                Good ideas! Keep them coming. how about engine / undercarriage /under fenders? Any removal ideas that will remove rust bloom, but leave original pant.
                I see hours of dirt in my future....
                http://jmodela.coffeecup.com

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                • #10
                  I've used my syphon sprayer to shoot drain oil on the underside of some cars. It has to help, but if you drive the car, it needs to be reapplied often.

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                  • Mitch
                    Mitch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I was thinking that as well

                • #11
                  This truck got the most attention of all the Model A's I have done. It was put together from parts.Most thought it was a original survivor truck.
                  1928 pickup.JPG
                  Last edited by George Miller; 03-19-2018, 04:41 PM.

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                  • #12
                    "Extend" is a spray product that converts Iron oxide to iron phosphate. It will turn black. Supposed to stop the formation of rust.
                    ____________________
                    Good enough.. Isn't.

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                    • #13
                      Fine grade of steel wool on the rust followed by Johnson's Paste Wax.

                      Comment


                      • DaWizard
                        DaWizard commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Hey crosscut, WELCOME to the VFF!!

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                      Original Thread


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