What is pictured are not Model A fenders. No matter, the principle is the same.
I am referring to painting the inside of deep-drawn fenders such as the A rear fenders.
Such a task is a challenge.
Once all the metal work is complete, we can attack the plastic work needed and shoot the insides.
First, because of the concavity, the paint wants to pepper back at you. You are shooting into a deep hole.
Second, because of the lips that need painting, this is another challenge, you need to be at a right angle to the lip.
There would be many ways to solve these problems. This is what we do here (fenders are from a '47 Stude M5 pickup, fronts and rears are the same)
We break the shoot up into 2 parts.
Part 1 we shoot the mounting lip and a reasonable amount of the main part of the fender, about half-way up.
Part 2 next day we flip the fender and shoot the other half.
All the major paint manufacturers carry blending agents for use for blending panels for collision repair. PPG calls their product Blend-Ease.
Blend Ease will bite into previously cured paint for a good bond and blend.
Now, for collision work, you would scuff the entire panel, then limit your shoot to the repaired area for the first 2 coats. On the 3rd coat, you add BlendEase at a rate of 50%, and shoot the entire panel.
We slightly modify this mix as follows:
The second day we add about 5% BlendEase to the mix in the gun, and then shoot as many coats as we want. For the insides of fenders, we use 2 coats, since we will not be buffing the paint. We do not scuff what we did in Part 1.
On exterior work, you would shoot 3 coats since you will be wet sanding off most of the last coat. Recall one coat of paint is about 1 mil.
Also, we will shoot down to about 50° temp, because we use accelerator. O/W 50° is too cold for the urethane to cure. The air temp for these fenders both days was 50°.
BTW that dull battleship gray color of the metal is because we spray down all blasted steel with phosphoric acid, which is a passivating agent for steel and cast. Once done, it can be stored indoors for literally years and not rust. I have a spare Model A frame stashed in the shop that was blasted and passivated 30 yrs ago and there is not a speck of rust. The color you are looking at is iron phosphate, and can be directly painted over. This way, we can metal work the fenders in small bites and not be rushed to spray on epoxy or something that would just get in the way of metal repair
Should you decide to use phosphoric acid for this purpose, some of the bottles say to wash it off after with water. Do NOT do this, you have just washed away the acid and its resulting protection
BlendEase.jpg
fenders2.jpg
fenders3.jpg
I am referring to painting the inside of deep-drawn fenders such as the A rear fenders.
Such a task is a challenge.
Once all the metal work is complete, we can attack the plastic work needed and shoot the insides.
First, because of the concavity, the paint wants to pepper back at you. You are shooting into a deep hole.
Second, because of the lips that need painting, this is another challenge, you need to be at a right angle to the lip.
There would be many ways to solve these problems. This is what we do here (fenders are from a '47 Stude M5 pickup, fronts and rears are the same)
We break the shoot up into 2 parts.
Part 1 we shoot the mounting lip and a reasonable amount of the main part of the fender, about half-way up.
Part 2 next day we flip the fender and shoot the other half.
All the major paint manufacturers carry blending agents for use for blending panels for collision repair. PPG calls their product Blend-Ease.
Blend Ease will bite into previously cured paint for a good bond and blend.
Now, for collision work, you would scuff the entire panel, then limit your shoot to the repaired area for the first 2 coats. On the 3rd coat, you add BlendEase at a rate of 50%, and shoot the entire panel.
We slightly modify this mix as follows:
The second day we add about 5% BlendEase to the mix in the gun, and then shoot as many coats as we want. For the insides of fenders, we use 2 coats, since we will not be buffing the paint. We do not scuff what we did in Part 1.
On exterior work, you would shoot 3 coats since you will be wet sanding off most of the last coat. Recall one coat of paint is about 1 mil.
Also, we will shoot down to about 50° temp, because we use accelerator. O/W 50° is too cold for the urethane to cure. The air temp for these fenders both days was 50°.
BTW that dull battleship gray color of the metal is because we spray down all blasted steel with phosphoric acid, which is a passivating agent for steel and cast. Once done, it can be stored indoors for literally years and not rust. I have a spare Model A frame stashed in the shop that was blasted and passivated 30 yrs ago and there is not a speck of rust. The color you are looking at is iron phosphate, and can be directly painted over. This way, we can metal work the fenders in small bites and not be rushed to spray on epoxy or something that would just get in the way of metal repair
Should you decide to use phosphoric acid for this purpose, some of the bottles say to wash it off after with water. Do NOT do this, you have just washed away the acid and its resulting protection
BlendEase.jpg
fenders2.jpg
fenders3.jpg
.png "cool")
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