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Gotta buff some stainless? Here is how we do it.

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  • Gotta buff some stainless? Here is how we do it.

    Depending on how corroded/scratched it is, we will start with 1000 or 1200. If none of these things apply, we will start with 1500, go to 2000, then 2500. You can end with 3000 if you like but you will end up about the same as what the mini-buffer is gonna do. Also, 3000 is quite pricey.

    We wet sand of course using a DA (very important). Be generous with the water. Be sure to change your water and rinse the DA thoroughly as you go up in grit.

    Dry off with paper towels after each cut to see where you stand scratch-wise. You may have to back up.

    SS is hard and you gotta be patient.

    Once we hit 2500 we break out the air powered mini-buffer and the 3M compound #1 and have at it. The buffing heads are velcro.

    The pix are self explanatory, as far as supplies go.

    BTW these are basically how you buff color, anyway.

    Dents are another issue to be covered another time. But basically you use a small ball-pein hammer and use gentle taps, not hits. Do this on a shot bag so that you can back the metal up. Start from the perimeter and slowly work your way in, else you will deform it even more.

    Practice on a scrap of sheet metal of maybe even a scrap chunk of SS, or a headlite bucket that is beyond repair. If the metal you want to practice on has no dents, put a small one in it with your ball pein hammer, but don't whale on it.

    Every metal working tip we offer here should always be practiced first on scrap metal, such as welding thin sheet metal. Never jump right onto the part you want to save.

    Eventually after you get the dent out you will have to break out the files you have and select the finest flat file you have, or get a really fine one, and carefully start filing the surface smooth. You will most likely have to start your paper out at 400 and work your way up. This will require a ton of patience.

    Good luck!
    mini buffer w pad.jpg

    blue point w pad off.jpg
    blue point buffer.jpg
    polishing compound.jpg
    mini buffer w pad.jpg





    Last edited by tbirdtbird; 09-25-2019, 11:37 PM.

  • #2
    What can you tell about welding stainless trim?

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    • #3
      It would need to be TIGed , and by someone with a really steady hand. Practice on scrap. Be sure to get a SS electrode, obv.
      The bead would then need to be dressed down.
      Fixture the pieces as best you can since it is gonna want to distort. TIG is the best at minimizing distortion, BTW, but it will still happen

      Comment


      • #4
        BTW here is a place in Ft Worth that does SS trim repair. There are other specialty shops also.
        It is not something I myself would attempt

        http://www.autorestorationinfortworthtx.com/

        Comment


        • #5
          thank you.I'm guessing that a butt weld is best?

          Comment


          • #6
            yes

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