Which type gives you the most reliable reading, especially for head bolt downs?
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Beam vs Click Torque Wrench
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I have used both and found the beam to be lacking. I currently use a click that has been calibrated at an aircraft facility. Also, did you know you can check the calibration using a vice and a brick? Clamp it up in the vice, preweigh the brick and hang it on the end of the wrench and see what you get.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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If properly calibrated they should both be accurate. I find the click type easier to use, since no scale gazing is necessary .3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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Claude, I have found that HF has good and bad tools. You might want to have the calibration checked. Not sure where you are, but I bet there is someplace around you that could do the job.You wana look waaay far up da road and plan yer route because the brakes are far more of a suggestion than a command!
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There was a thread on a garage forum about the HF clickers. Believe it or not they were found to be pretty accurate. How long they maintain that accuracy is anyone's guess. Personally i only own Snap On torques3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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Originally posted by BudP View PostWhen I use my click-type torque wrench, I always store it at the lowest level on the scale: supposed to be a way to maintain accurate calibration.
There are two different variations of those clickers. One has the adjustable handle and the other uses the knob in the front. I am pretty sure it's best to turn the adjustable handle style to 0. The knob deal does not screw up the calibration by leaving it set higher during storage.3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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I have both Snap-On clicks and several beam types. I far prefer the beam. I find them easier to use as I am in control of how much force I apply to the wrench while watching the scale. In torque to yield apps you can see, easily feel and compare the yield points across several fasteners. You can also measure the break loose torque of fasteners, not possible with the click wrenches. I guess I'm old school.Mechanical engineering 101: If you put an adjustment knob, screw, bolt, or tolerance specs on something, some people will immediately fiddle with it. If you mark it DO NOT TOUCH everyone will mess with it.
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I have an inch lb, 3/8" drive, beam wrench and a 1/2 " drive "click" type. Neither of which has a dial. Why is that important? I am about to rebuild a rear and the preloads on on the bearings is 20 in.Lbs and supposedly I should be measuring the preloads with a dial type wrench, why? What is important that I'm missing?
Terry
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Originally posted by MikeK View PostI have both Snap-On clicks and several beam types. I far prefer the beam. I find them easier to use as I am in control of how much force I apply to the wrench while watching the scale. In torque to yield apps you can see, easily feel and compare the yield points across several fasteners. You can also measure the break loose torque of fasteners, not possible with the click wrenches. I guess I'm old school.
I have this in my Arsenal, does your beam type look like this? Am I Old School too? This is Snap On !!!You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 4 photos.3~ Tudor's & 1~ Coupe
Henry Ford said,
"It's all nuts and bolts"
"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible."
Mitch's Auto Service ctr
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Mitch, yep, that's definitely an old school pre-click era Snap On torque wrench! My dad had one at his Texaco station. I WISH I had it!Mechanical engineering 101: If you put an adjustment knob, screw, bolt, or tolerance specs on something, some people will immediately fiddle with it. If you mark it DO NOT TOUCH everyone will mess with it.
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I love that vintage torque wrench. I see several oldies similar to this one for sale. They all seem very well made not like the junk you buy today. If I were to buy an antique torque wrench, do they remain true or do springs rust and readings are faulty?
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Originally posted by Terry, NJ View PostI have an inch lb, 3/8" drive, beam wrench and a 1/2 " drive "click" type. Neither of which has a dial. Why is that important? I am about to rebuild a rear and the preloads on on the bearings is 20 in.Lbs and supposedly I should be measuring the preloads with a dial type wrench, why? What is important that I'm missing?
Terry
https://www.amazon.com/Presa-CP31006...SIN=B00XKIIKOM
JohnLast edited by john in illinois; 01-30-2018, 02:25 PM.
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