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BNCHIEF started a blog post Assembling the short block and degreeing the camshaft and engine Part twoAssembling the short block and degreeing the camshaft and engine Part two
In this series i will detail the assembly of the engine block and de-greeing the engine.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 12 photos. -
Building the 1927 model t engine and transmission- preparation part one
I will show a few things on this engine as I build it it has stipe 280 camshaft with adjustable lifters and modern stainless steel valves and keepers the timing gear is a stipe adjustable timing gear the cam is advanced 4 degrees(on the advice of Bill Stipe) I will remove the magnets since the crank is counterbalanced and does not need them and it will help reduce some strain on the crank. I will...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 8 photos.Last edited by BNCHIEF; 11-26-2020, 08:49 AM. -
NOV 2020 Brookville dropped off the finished body and pickup bed
So the Brookville truck was on the way to California to drop off 10 1932 roadster car bodies and I met them up in Kansas City to "pick up" the pickup with my dad and two teenage sons.
After getting it home I compared the new stuff to what was left of mine and it looks darn close if not exact.
I was very pleased as I have always done the welding and patching on all my other...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 4 photos. -
JUNE 2020 The body tub and pickup bed
So I sand blasted the tank/cowl section and no dents, rust through only in a couple of small spots where it mounts to the frame. I applied a coat of primer and re-evaluated the rest of the tub and the pickup bed. There was not much left - literally.
I have been thinking things over the last couple of years after dad dropped it off and decided to check into Brookville Roadster. I have done...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 12 photos. -
Febuary 2020 Body off
The body as you can imagine came off fairly easily since it was mostly rusted away on the back half. The tank and the front cowl section are in surprisingly great shape with little corrosion. The hood although only surface rust has had some dents and bends here and there. The roadster car doors my dad found for it are badly bent too.
Here is the frame on the trailer.
With COVID my business...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 4 photos.Last edited by rkmiller; 11-16-2020, 03:42 PM. -
First Entry - Condition as of 1988
This is me with the pickup around 1988. Fenders were left over from other projects my dad and grandpa had worked on.
The pickup had most of the rear cab rusted away and a fair amount of the bed inside was gone too. My dad added some roadster car doors (note the door handles) on it with some bailing wire to hold them shut.
The pickup was stored in a corner while I did other projects -...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos. -
Engine teardown
Well I got my engine taken apart today. Really in pretty good shape. I got this engine with a '30 Coupe I purchased several years ago. I worked on the body, but lost interest. Sold the body and kept the running gear for my '31 Station wagon.
Today I started into the engine. The thing wouldn't turn over, so was really surprised when I started taking it apart and it looked like it... -
Brake parts and other bits.
For the past 6 weeks I have been working on mechanical parts for the Station Wagon. I am actually procrastinating working on the fenders. I have now missed the fall painting window for the fenders, so I guess my procrastinating scheme was successful. Now I just have to work them to be ready for the spring paint window May or June 2021.
Oh well here are some pics of my toils.
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Radius Rod (Wishbone) ball repair
So, I started working on the front end pieces and one thing on the list was to repair the ball on the back of the wishbone. This one was pretty badly worn, so saw these options.- Use as is
- Replace the ball with a new one
- Install a washer in the socket
- Try and repair what I have
Last edited by Jwmckenzie; 10-18-2020, 06:48 AM. -
Ruckstell part 4 modern brakes
This is the 4th and last part of the ruckstell build i will show final assembly and disc brake set up as well as line making tools from Eastwood (best tool i have ever bought)You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 20 photos. -
ruckstell build part three
In this part we will assemble the whole rear axle. I ran into a lot of issues here installing the hub drum and rotor. the new roller bearing is supposed to slip right over the axle this one does not the axles make it fit slightly snugger than a slip fit. At first i said a few bad words about this but i changed the whole set up and made it better i did have to make a tool to push the new assembly...You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 19 photos. -
Building the modern ruckstell part two
This post will show prepping the internal of the ruckstell axleYou do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 13 photos. -
Building and modernizing the ruckstell rear end part one
I will detail in this post the building of the modern rear end in the ruckstell axle with the improvements made as well as the issues that go along with itYou do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 10 photos. -
new axles for the modelt
When you need new axles for the model t and if the old axle is no good I cut the gear end off about 6" from the bottom of the gear. Find an appropriate socket to press the stub end of the axle down thru the gear this will expose the 2 c clips. Remove them and press the axle out of the gear. When you get a new axle have a machinist mike your gear and the shaft of the new axle there should... -
Weekend work accomplished and building the modern t rear end.
I finished up the whole front end will put new bearings in the hubs and modern seals and dust caps, springs are rebuilt and lubriplated on the bottom sides and assembled chassis is now recieving component parts....You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 13 photos.
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I would love to go with a scat crank. I think I will snag a block and start gathering parts for a engine build. Ron’s machine still uses babbit with scat cranks.11-28-2020, 04:01 PM -
Mitch i have used it for a long time that said the metal has to really be clean and etched11-28-2020, 08:46 AM
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Chief are you a Glyptal guy? Make sure that stuff is on real good.11-28-2020, 08:30 AM -
Danny not sure about costs babbitt versus inserts but i always thought if I was going to go insert i would also go with a scat crank.11-28-2020, 07:51 AM
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Babbit
I know that head is a little hot for the the bottom end11-27-2020, 01:19 PM -
Danny are you going to run inserts.11-27-2020, 06:59 AM
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I am running a 6:1 i purchased from the late Ralph Zajic from Texas he and his wife used to drive all over the country they had a paddy wagon it said East Kitterey Maine on the side do not know if there was such a place. Ralph was a character and so was Marci they had keystone cops outfits they wore.11-27-2020, 06:59 AM
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Awesome Chief, I am liking it a lot. What head you running? I have a Pruis for my build11-26-2020, 09:08 PM
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Oh, yea I remember you telling me that Herm did the Babbitt. That's going to be a sweet running and driving T. Love all the upgrades11-26-2020, 08:32 PM
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No Wiz one is not needed these are babbitt bearings which were done by the late Herm Kohnke along with the counter weights the whole assembly including the transmission has been balanced i will show more on that later the engine will use paddles and they move plenty of oil.11-26-2020, 12:27 PM